Red Wines

wines

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is showing brilliantly this year, wafting from the glass with a deep-pitched bouquet of cassis, blackberries, spices and dark chocolate. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, rich and enveloping, its textural attack segueing into a deep and layered core, concluding with a long and penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru was more backward than the Les Beaumonts and demanded more coaxing to offer raspberry, wild strawberry, sous-bois, touches of morels and light sage aromas, gradually unfolding from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite strict and maybe a little rustic for a Les Suchots, but with fine grip and spiciness toward the finish. This will require 4–5 years to fully meld.Vinous Media | 93+ VMThis is spicier still and a bit riper as well if not quite so elegant on the variety of black berry fruit aromas that are trimmed in very subtle wood. The velvety, generous and extremely rich flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the, robust, muscular and bitter cherry pit-inflected finale. As is usually the case, this is not as refined but it’s definitely more powerful.Burghound | 92 BHSuchots is quite a way further down the slope than Beaumonts and is always a riper wine as a result, which in 2018 gives it a bit more of a roasted character here (again, very reminiscent of a 1990 Vosne), but still with plenty of complexity and breed. The nose wafts from the glass in a mix of roasted cassis, blackberries, roasted meats, dark soil tones, a bit of coffee grounds, bonfire and a topnote of Vosne spices. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely plush at the core, with far more mineral drive on the backend than the nose suggests, good focus and grip and a long, ripely tannic finish. This is a very good bottle in the making and I am sure that some might prefer its more flamboyant style than that of the Beaumonts, but I have a slight preference for the latter. (Drink between 2028 - 2060)John Gilman | 91 JGFrom vines planted in the 1910s, towards the bottom of the vineyard where there is plenty of earth but not down in the dip. Glowing mid purple. Soft and luscious but then with good energy behind and very good length. As always a very discreet wine, and in this case a very fine one. Tasted Nov 2019.Jasper Morris | 91-95 JM

While not submitted to my tasting (and it wasn’t presented from barrel last year), it would be hard to imagine there won’t be a Les Vieilles Fontaines cuvée. Don’t miss a chance to buy a bottle if you find one. Moving to the 2018 Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes, this beauty is cut from the same cloth as the Les Chailles yet is deeper and richer, with another level of concentration. Black and blue fruits, ground pepper, violets, smoked game, and loads of spring flower notes define the bouquet, and it has a vibrant, almost old school vibe that carries plenty of power yet still stays light and elegant on the palate. This beautiful, singular wine is open and enjoyable today, yet I wouldn’t be surprised to see it close down with a year or two of bottle age. It should see its 20th birthday in fine form.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2018 Cornas Vieilles Vignes blends fruit from some of the top lieux-dits of the appellation: Combe, Patou, La Côte, Les Mazards and Chaillot. Aged 20 months in approximately 15% new oak, it’s a dark, inky-hued wine, but one that retains bright, fresh fruit notes of red raspberries and plums alongside hints of cedar and menthol. It’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with a firm, granitic structure and sense of restraint, fine-grained, almost silky tannins and tremendous length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPOpaque ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet displays powerful aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, incense, peony and olive paste. Palate-staining blackberry, boysenberry, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors deepen steadily on the back half. Gains weight and sweetness with air, finishing with a jolt of smoky minerality, sneaky tannins and outstanding persistence.Vinous Media | 95 VMThyme and pine needles behind the blackberry and raspberry fruit. Has some depth and weight on the mid-palate, along with a dense lattice of ripe tannin. Acidity is well balanced, there’s a good sense of freshness and drive through the palate. Longer and deeper than most 2018 Cornas. Great saline beam through the wine holding up the very ripe fruit. Seductively drinkable now, but will age longer than most. Vines with an average age of 60 years on lieux-dits Combe, Patou, La Côte, Les Mazards et Chaillot. 20% whole bunch, fermented in stainless steel, matured for 18 months in barriques, 20% new.Decanter | 95 DECDark and winey, with lots of steeped black cherry, plum and blackberry fruit forming the core while light sweet tapenade, rosemary and mineral notes streak through on the finish. Vivid, energetic Cornas. Best from 2022 through 2036. 1,350 cases made, 128 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The Clos des Mouches made by Joseph Drouhin may be more famous, but Bichot’s parcel of 0.7ha, situated in the highest part of the Premier Cru, is pretty impressive in its own right. Bright, focused and chiselled, it’s the sort of white that wouldn’t look out of place in Puligny-Montrachet, combining citrus, wet stone and aniseed flavours.Drinking Window 2021 - 2028Decanter | 94 DECA creamy-textured white with sliced apples, pears, cream and some lemon and lime rind. Hints of morning yogurt and smoke. Medium-bodied, ready and delicious. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSCream and roasted hazelnut notes create an inviting, rounded nose on this wine. The palate has that same hazelnut richness and creamy flow, buttressed by freshness that recalls lemon and yellow pear. A lovely balance and a juicy, fresh finish do justice to the warm 2018 vintage. Drink by 2035.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Beaune "Clos des Mouches" 1er Cru White) An overtly floral nose combines notes of various white-fleshed fruit with those of lemon grass and spice wisps. The sleek, delicious and equally seductively textured medium-bodied flavors possess very good depth and sneaky length. This balanced effort should drink well young as well as with a few years of bottle aging. (Drink starting 2024)Burghound | 91 BHMarked by vivid acidity, this white evokes lemon, apple, vanilla and clove notes. A tad disjointed, this could use a year to integrate, or decant now. Shows echoes of oak spice on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2029. 480 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Made of 100% Merlot, the 2018 Bellevue has a deep garnet-purple color and a profound nose of plum preserves, blackberry compote and stewed black cherries, followed by an undercurrent of cedar chest, violets, aniseed and iron ore with a touch of garrigue. The medium to full-bodied palate packs the mouth with wonderfully energetic black fruits and a lively backbone, framed by ripe, rounded tannins, finishing on a lingering ferrous note.Bellevue is the pretty little vineyard poised just above Château Angelus in Saint-Émilion. The soils here are clay/limestone, and it is planted to 100% Merlot.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2018 Bellevue has a gorgeous bouquet of copious red berry fruit, crushed rock, rose petals and cedar scents that gain intensity with aeration. The fresh, vibrant palate is very well balanced with fine tannins, perfect acidity, precise mineral drive and a classy finish. This is a superb Bellevue that lives up to its promise from barrel.Vinous Media | 93 VMLots of red and blue fruits, violets, orange blossom, and more exotic notes emerge from the 2018 Château Bellevue. Medium to full-bodied, it offers beautiful purity, ripe tannins, and a good spine of acidity that keeps everything fresh and vibrant. Beautifully done, it will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for upwards of 15 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThere is clear austerity on the approach, with the fruit pulling inwards through the mid-palate before widening out. It has an impressive texture with fleshy plum and ripe red apple fruit. You can feel the softness of the tannins, gently laying in wait, and this gets pretty big on the juicy, seductive finish, where there’s a ton of liquorice to fall into. An organically-certified estate owned by the de Bouard family. Drinking Window 2026 - 2040. Decanter | 93 DEC

This estate is regaining its rightful place in the prestigious crus classés. Richly textured, this latest release shows luscious blackberry fruits and layers of firm tannins. The wine will age well, so wait to drink until 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WELovely deep ruby colour with excellent oak finesse on the aromatics, not overpowering but adding layers of smoke against cassis and black cherry fruits. You can find both nuance and complexity in this wine. This is gourmet as it opens with black chocolate and liquorice also. Clear interest and potential for ageing. Drinking Window 2026 - 2042.Decanter | 92 DECBlueberries and dried currants on the nose with savory oyster shell, tobacco and graphite. Dried violets, too. It’s medium-bodied with firm, fine-grained tannins. Layered and flavorful. Balanced. 55% cabernet sauvignon and 45% merlot. Try from 2023.James Suckling | 92 JSThe 2018 de Camensac has retained its attractive aromatics, needing just a little coaxing to reveal blackberry, bilberry, light marine scents and those iris petals that I remarked upon out of barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with good backbone and well-judged acidity. I admire the substance of this de Camensac, and there is wonderful salinity on the finish. This comes recommended and I can see it aging well.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2018 Canon is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Maybe more so. Vertical and explosive in the glass, Canon sizzles with tension and vibrancy. Readers will find a majestic, soaring Grand Cru Classé that captures all the magic of Saint-Émilion’s limestone plateau. Canon exudes mind-blowing precision and deliciousness. It is another magnificent effort from Technical Director Nicolas Audebert and his team.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThe Grand Vin is the 2018 Château Canon, which is based on 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc brought up in 52% new French oak. Its incredible bouquet delivers richness paired with amazing freshness and precision, offering loads of crème de cassis and darker berry fruits intermixed with classic Saint-Emilion chalky minerality, graphite, scorched earth, and spring flowers. Gorgeous on the palate as well, with medium to full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannins, flawless balance, and again, this wonderful sense of freshness paired with ample richness, it needs 4-5 years of bottle age and will evolve for 30+ years. The 2009 and 2015 are still my favorite vintages of this wine, but this is up there with the best of them.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDA beautiful Canon that performs the 360-degree trick in your mouth of expanding up, down and out. Of course a little austere right now at this young age, but already walking the tightrope towards richness; the creaminess in the texture becomes clear after 20 minutes in the glass. This has salinity, purity, precision and grip, showing its distinct personality and its ability to draw juice and mouthwatering expression from the fruits. Drinking Window 2026 - 2048Decanter | 98 DECBlackberries and tar with wet-earth and dark-bark aromas. Dark-chocolate and brownie notes, too. It’s full-bodied with creamy tannins and a round, caressing finish. Lovely focus and intensity, though dense and layered. Extremely creamy and polished. Really precise and bespoke. It already opens beautifully on the palate. Drink after 2025.James Suckling | 98 JSA blend of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc, the 2018 Canon has a pH of 3.69 and 14% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple in color, it tumbles effortlessly out of the glass with a gorgeous perfume of candied violets, preserved plums, black cherry compote and Ceylon tea with hints of kirsch, powdered cinnamon, chocolate box and fertile loam. The medium to full-bodied palate is packed with juicy black fruit layers, supported by plush, oh-so-soft tannins and well-knit freshness, finishing long and fragrant.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThis estate owned by the Chanel luxury group continues its winning streak with this latest release. Dark and firm at this stage but with obviously powerful, rich black fruits, the wine is destined for a long aging. Tannins and structure pour through dense blackberry and damson flavors, leaving room for a succulent aftertaste. Drink from 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WERipe and focused, with a core of plum, black cherry and raspberry compote notes that are still a bit coiled up, though inlaid with a racy chalky spine and notes of black tea and tobacco that should all meld as it stretches out in the cellar. A restrained, refined, lengthy wine that drips with class. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

A well-constructed wine that is ripe with black fruits and integrated tannins, this is in a good place for aging. Black-currant fruitiness is balanced by a dry, smoky core that holds promise. Drink this wine from 2026. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WERich aromas of blackberries, dried currants, chocolate, walnuts and tile on the nose. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm, fine-grained tannins. Polished and structured with a nice core of black fruit. Give it at least a couple of years of bottle age. Lovely balance to it. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 93 JSSome reduction on the first nose here. Really takes some time before the fruit starts to come out, showing nuanced layers of raspberry and chocolate, with a tiny touch of bitterness on the finish. There is clear power and depth here. Give it time in bottle. (Drink between 2026-2042)Decanter | 91 DEC

Always one of the top Crozes-Hermitage out there (although the case could be made that it’s more Hermitage than Crozes), the 2018 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers has a liqueur of rocks-like character as well as gorgeous blue fruits, violets, earth, and bouquet garni aromas and flavors. I’d unquestionably guess Hermitage in a blind lineup. This full-bodied beauty has a seamless texture, ample tannins, and a great finish. It’s pure class and the finest Crozes Hermitage out there in 2018. It’s a stunning value that readers should snatch up!Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDGlistening ruby. A deeply perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, olive paste, mocha and potpourri; a smoky mineral element adds energetic lift. Sappy and penetrating on the palate, offering broad-shouldered bitter cherry, cassis, cola and candied violet flavors that are given spine and lift by a core of juicy acidity. Shows sharp focus and resonating smoke and spice notes on the penetrating finish, where dusty, slow-building tannins add gentle grip and focus. 25% new oak.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis is really nicely packed with dark currant, cherry and blackberry fruit that has melded with alder, bay leaf and tar notes. Iron and sanguine details add range on the finish. Approachable, but will gain with some cellaring. Drink now through 2032. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSSumptuous cherries line the medium to full-bodied palate of the 2018 Crozes Hermitage les Varonniers. Underneath—for the moment—are stony notes of granitic reserve, which I wouldn’t be surprised to see emerge even more with time. For now, this looks plush and fruity, but don’t be misled—there’s more here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

A more reductive, meaty, backward effort than normal, the 2018 Saint Joseph Les Granits is all Syrah that comes from unquestionably one of the top terroirs in Saint-Joseph. It was vinified in concrete tanks and aged in a mix of barrels and demi-muids, 20% being new. It blossoms with air and reveals an almost Hermitage-like class and minerality, with killer crème de cassis and black raspberry fruits supported by loads of smoked game, saddle leather, crushed stone, barbecue smoke, garrigue, and violet-like aromas and flavors. Just incredible on the palate as well, with medium to full-bodied richness, awesome tannins, and a liquid rock-like minerality, this tour de force from Saint-Joseph ranks with the finest vintage of this cuvée ever made and matches the 2015, although it shows a very different style. It should be snatched up by readers. It will need 3-5 years of bottle age and will drink brilliantly over the following 20 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA very fine-tuned wine, super sleek and refined, with cassis, plum puree and cherry coulis notes streaming through, inlaid seamlessly with a bright mineral edge and all set against a floral and red tea backdrop. The long finish ripples with subtle energy. Drink now through 2038. 57 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 95 WSCrushed stone, cracked pepper and ripe blueberries appear on the nose of the 2018 Saint-Joseph Les Granits. Black olives show up on the palate, adding a welcome savory note. Atypically full-bodied and velvety, I expect more structure to emerge with time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPAssertively perfumed, spice-accented dark berry liqueur, floral pastille and smoky mineral scents show fine delineation and a hint of olive. Sappy and expansive on the palate, offering plush boysenberry and black raspberry flavors that deepen and become sweeter through the midpalate. Deftly blends richness and energy and finishes impressively long and floral, with smooth tannins and an echoing mineral note.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMPretty and pure berry fruits with a little smoky backbone. A very rounded and generous style, not as straight as some vintages but good tannic precision and grip, very granitic, very fine, fibrous, muscular tannins. A little touch of bitterness on the long finish. Drinking Window 2019 - 2025.Decanter | 93 DEC

The 2018 Des Fougères Clos Montesquieu is terrific. Black cherry, espresso, licorice, dried flowers, mocha, blood orange, gravel and baking spices open gradually in the glass. More than anything else, I admire the wine’s persistence and overall balance. Clos Montesquieu is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGClove and chili to the dark-berry and pine-needle undertones. It’s medium-bodied with a solid core of ripe, fine tannins and dark fruit. Drinkable now, but better in 2022.James Suckling | 91 JSA blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon brought up in 20% new oak, the 2018 Château Des Fougères Clos Montesquieu has a pretty, incredibly floral perfume of blue fruits, mulberries, leafy herbs, cedar, and rose petals. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is medium-bodied, has a lively thread of acidity, light tannins, and solid length. It’s one of those wines that grows on you with time in the glass and shines more for its finesse and elegance than power. It’s going to benefit from 2-4 years in the cellar and should keep for a decade. (Drink between 2023-2033)Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD

Shimmering ruby. Powerful blackberry, cherry and licorice aromas are complicated by suggestions of smoky minerals and violet. Well-concentrated and broad in the mouth, offering bitter cherry and dark berry flavors enlivened by a snap of cracked pepper. Slowly building tannins frame the finish, which lingers with very good, dark-fruit-driven persistence.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe light tannins are beautifully textured and encase vivid raspberry and currant flavors matched with woodsy spice, licorice and floral details. Undertones of mineral and spice sail through the tangy finish. Drink now through 2026. 5,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSFull blackberry fruit, generous body and lively acidity make this Moulin-à-Vent easy to enjoy, and the well drafted balance of discreet tannins and mineral acidity at the finish provides very satisfying harmony. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

Pretty ripe fruit with berry, walnut and chocolate character on the nose and palate. Medium to full body, round tannins and a savory finish. Drinkable now, but better in 2022.James Suckling | 92 JS

Good complexity on the nose, chocolate, cherries, plums and blackcurrants. Succulent straight away, it makes you suck your cheeks in, the tannins are abundant and fill the mouth but with a soft, juicy chewiness that’s really pleasant. I really like this density, it feels full without being too much - all in balance. A really enjoyable wine, good to have with food and will age well continuing to integrate and soften, but I like its fruit-forward confidence right now. A bit of milk chocolate sweetness, some chalkiness and then a herbal element too - everything you need in a good claret! with typicity and approachability. Top value too. Drinking Window 2023 - 2033.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2018 Laffitte-Carcasset is gorgeous, just as it was from barrel. This mid-weight Saint-Estèphe impresses with its nuance and delineation. Bright red fruit, iron, menthol, anise, cedar and rose petal lend uncommon complexity, while fine grained tannins give the wine proportion and drive. This polished, under the radar gem is a real delight. Laffitte-Carcasset is an especially delicate wine for the appellation.Antonio Galloni | 92 AGThe estate on the plateau of Saint-Estèphe is well situated to produce this rich, full-bodied wine. Broad tannins give the dry core essential for aging. They are balanced by black-currant fruits from the 50% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. It will age well; drink from 2025.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEBlackcurrants, brambleberries, walnut husks, dried leaves and dark spices on the nose. It’s medium-bodied with firm, tight-grained tannins. Fresh and structured. Crushed stone comes through in the aftertaste. Better from 2024.James Suckling | 91 JS

A unique blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Château Mangot Todeschini Distique 11 has a gorgeous nose of black raspberries, cassis, acacia flowers, white chocolate, and graphite. With fabulous purity of fruit, full-bodied richness, silky tannins, and loads of floral and sappy herb aromas and flavors, this is gorgeous Saint-Emilion and the finest I’ve tasted from this address. It needs 3-4 years of bottle age and will keep two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JDComposed of 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Todeschini is deep garnet-purple colored and gives up broody notions of new leather, crushed stones and tar with a core of baked red and black cherries, mulberries and warm plums plus wafts of garrigue and fragrant earth. Full-bodied, firm and grainy in the mouth, it has loads of muscular fruit and a lively line, finishing perfumed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2018 Distique 11 is laced with inky blue/purplish fruit, lavender, spice and mint. Pliant and supple, this inviting, mid-weight Saint-Émilion has a lot to offer. The racy style is undeniably appealing. The 2018 is a blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon taken from select parcels on the estate and aged in amphora. It is an undeniably intriguing wine.Vinous Media | 93 VMA balanced, pretty wine with firm, sleek tannins that are polished and refined. Blackberry, bark and chocolate undertones. Medium body. Delicious finish. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2018 Pibran is fabulous, just as it was en primeur. Juicy, rich and expansive in this vintage, Pibran offers terrific richness and verve. Dark cherry, spice, new leather and cedar build as this stylish Pauillac shows off its considerable charms. The 2018 is unquestionably extroverted. It is also shamelessly delicious.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGThe 2018 Château Pibran emerges from a cooler, gravelly terroir in Pauillac and is close to an even split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, all raised in 50% new oak. Lots of red, black, and blue fruits as well as lead pencil, violets, camphor, and smoked tobacco emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a terrific sense of freshness, ripe yet firm, polished tannins, and a great finish. This is another classic Pauillac that’s going to benefit from 3-6 years of bottle age (it’s far from unapproachable today) and keep for 20-25 years in cold cellars. (Drink between 2024-2049)Jeb Dunnuck | 93+ JDBlackcurrant, blueberry, pencil-lead, clove and walnut-husk aromas. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm, tight-grained tannins. Nice minerality. Try from 2024 and onwards.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2018 Pibran is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Merlot, matured for 18 months in barriques, 50% new and 50% one year old. Deep garnet-purple in color, it comes skipping out of the glass with bright, cheerful scents of Morello cherries, mulberries and wild blueberries, giving way to a core of cassis, dark chocolate and violets, with a waft of woodsmoke. Medium-bodied, the palate is delicately styled with fantastic freshness and fine-grained tannins supporting the crunchy black fruit layers, finishing long and lifted.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPRich in both structure and fruit, this wine has ripe tannins and a full, generous texture that is given shape by full-bodied, black-fruit flavors. From the northern part of Pauillac, the wine is good for medium-term aging. Drink from 2023.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA very tasty, enjoyable Pibran that comes from a cooler site than the main Pichon Baron wine, from gravel soils over a bed of limestone, and always the last for the team to harvest as was the case again in 2018. You can certainly feel the freshness and juice through the dark fruits – a wine that will be limbered up after just four or five years in bottle. 50% new oak. A yield of 37hl/ha. (Drink between 2024-2038)Decanter | 90 DEC

Love the floral character to the aromas of dark fruit, such as blueberries and black cherries. Red and black licorice, too. The full-bodied palate starts slowly and then expands with super polished, searing tannins that lead you up the palate into a place of grandeur. Lightly chewy at the end. Such great purity and presence here. 6% cabernet sauvignon in the blend with franc and merlot. Try after 2028.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2018 Cheval Blanc is a blend of 54% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, with a 3.75 pH and 14.5% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs considerable swirling and air to releases fragrant notes of stewed plums, juicy black cherries and ripe blackberries with underlying suggestions of damp soil, black truffles, rose oil and cardamom with wafts of underbrush and iron ore. The medium to full-bodied palate is densely packed with rich black fruits and loads of earthy accents, framed by super firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness to balance, finishing with amazing length and a beautiful array of floral and mineral sparks. Thirty-three plots contributed to this wine, out of the forty-three in production. Of the rest, five went into Petit Cheval and five into bulk. It will need a good 6-7 years at least to really start to strut its stuff and should cellar for a further 30 years or more.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPThe 2018 Cheval Blanc is magnificent. In a vintage in which so many wines are opulent and dense, Cheval Blanc maintains striking translucence while conveying the natural radiance of the year. Silky, perfumed and exceptionally vivid, the 2018 pulses with energy from start to finish. Sage, mint, lavender and mocha all meld together on the sumptuous finish. Cabernet Franc, such a Cheval signature, has probably never been so ripe. In a word: dazzling.Antonio Galloni | 98+ AGShowing beautifully from barrel and now from bottle, the 2018 Château Cheval Blanc is a final blend of 54% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a pure, classic Cheval Blanc in that it relies more on complexity and elegance than power, offering a beautiful perfume of red and blackcurrants, spring flowers, spice, forest floor, incense, and tobacco. This carries to a medium to full-bodied Cheval Blanc offering wonderful purity of fruit, a seamless, layered texture, incredible tannins, and a lengthy, focused finish. It shows less of the sunny style of the vintage now than it did from barrel, and it’s a wonderfully complete wine that delivers awesome freshness in its aromatics, plenty of ripe, sweet fruit, and the tannins and structure that seem to come from a long, cooler season. Reminding me slightly of the 2016, with a touch of the 2001, give this gorgeous wine 5-7 years of bottle age, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe first thing that strikes about this wine is its massive density. The second is the richness of the structured Cabernet Franc that is such an important element in the blend. Weight is balanced by the intense fruits and amazing freshness of a wine that has such concentration. This wine will age for years. Don’t touch it before 2027.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThis has the vintage’s profile, with a sleek and slightly austere frame holding a core of cassis, bitter cherry and raspberry coulis notes tightly together while flashes of bay, dried anise and savory add range and detail. Has a late tug of warm earth along with a very perfumy echo through the finish. A beauty. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2024 through 2038. 10,208 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSLovely ripeness on the nose, full of dense Morello cherries and milk chocolate notes, this feels round and just very complete. It has a density on the palate immediately, voluminous with chalky, gentle gripping tannins, almost chewy on the second taste, that fill the mouth. Generous and expansive. Voluptuous fruit with a capitvating and satisfying texture, it’s really the mouthfeel that’s in focus, big and wide - coating the mouth. Flavours are concentrated around blackcurrant and black cherry with some sweet strawberry and soft chalkiness as well as a touch of sweet liquorice too. Clear depth and power though still youthful and somewhat shy. An excellent Cheval. (Drink between 2028-2055)Decanter | 96 DEC

The 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very elegant bouquet that is more poised and detailed than the Charmes-Chambertin, offering black cherries, raspberry and ground gravelly scents; floral notes emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, gorgeous blueberry and strawberry fruit and a silky-smooth, sensual finish that is utterly refined. Stunning.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries and rose petals, framed by a deft touch of new oak, and on the palate it’s more reserved than the Charmes at this early stage. Medium to full-bodied, deep and elegantly structural, it’s lively and nicely defined, but it will need a bit more time than the Charmes to come around. As readers will remember, Dugat’s vines in Chapelle-Chambertin are located in lieu-dit Les Gémeaux, a site that tends to produce somewhat more structured wines than adjacent lieu-dit La Chapelle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RP(Domaine Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) A riper and more deeply pitched nose is comprised by notes of plum, cassis, violet and discreet earth and spice nuances. The sleek and almost painfully intense big-bodied flavors possess event power and muscle while delivering excellent persistence on the minerally, crunchy and youthfully austere finish. This too is very clearly constructed for the long-term and it’s pointless to buy this without the expectation of aging it properly. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 92-94 BH

The progression of this property continues to be evident in the glass with a beautiful classicism, full of life and layers comprising dark spice and touches of black pepper against blueberry and cool fruits, pumped up by black chocolate and liquorice.It’s confident and clearly has a fierce quality to the tannins giving a long life ahead of it. The harvest started on September 17, one week later than Mouton because of its cooler terroir, with the blend completed by 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmanère.This is the last vintage with Jean-Emmanuel Donjoy at the helm as he’s making his way over to Mouton-Rothschild to work alongside Philippe Dhalluin. A tough gig to turn down of course, but I will miss the work he has done here and look forward to seeing what his successor will add. Drinking Window 2026 - 2040Decanter | 96 DECThis opulent wine is as bold with its fruit as with its tannins. The initial velvet texture masks the dense structure that will allow it to age impressively. Blackberry flavors, acidity and intense richness are coming together in a welter of ripe fruits. Drink from 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEBlackcurrants, tobacco, graphite, cloves and dried leaves on the nose. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm, tightly knit tannins. Structured and compact with a long, mineral finish. Tight and austere. Very pretty structure here. Wait until 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2018 Clerc Milon is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Carménère. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it has a very pure, beautifully delineated nose of crushed blackcurrants, fresh black plums and boysenberries with hints of wild thyme, damp soil, tar and black olives. The medium to full-bodied palate offers taut, muscular black fruit with loads of savory layers and a firm, grainy texture, finishing long and mineral tinged.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2018 Clerc Milon is showing beautifully today. Gorgeous savory notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon open first, showing the modern direction of Clerc Milon towards a more Cabernet focused wine. Dried flowers, menthol, licorice, graphite and black cherry are all laced together effortlessly. The tannins have settled down a bit since en primeur, which is a very good sign for the future.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGThis throws off a lovely stream of violet and cassis aromas and flavors that are sleek and pure in feel, picking up dark cherry, iron and sanguine details along the way. Refined and cellarworthy. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carmenère. Best from 2023 through 2035.Wine Spectator | 93 WSFrom an estate located on the east side of highway D2 and between Château Lafite and Château Mouton Rothschild, the 2018 Château Clerc Milon is a ripe, sexy, full-bodied Pauillac that brings plenty of richness while still staying reasonably elegant. Blackcurrants, blackberries, smoked earth, new leather, and cedary herbs all flow to an impressively endowed, layered Pauillac with chewy tannins, terrific balance, and a great finish. Based on 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, brought up in 50% new French oak, this outstanding 2018 needs 4-6 years of bottle age to round into form and will evolve nicely for 20-25 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JD

Including slightly more Cabernet Sauvignon than usual, the 2018 Château Clinet is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon that was brought up in 75% new French oak. One of the superstars of the vintage, it has incredible elegance and finesse as well as gorgeous richness and depth. Notes of cassis and truffly dark fruits as well as tobacco, damp earth, chocolate, and lead pencil shavings emerge from the glass, and it’s full-bodied, with a seamless, multi-dimensional texture, gorgeous tannins, and a great, great finish. It already offers incredible pleasure, but it won’t hit maturity for another 5-7 years and should evolve for 30 years or more. This magical wine is in the same league as the 2015 and 2016, and drinking these beauties over the coming decades will be an incredible treat.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThe 2018 Clinet is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for approximately 16 months in French oak barriques, 75% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, the nose is locked down tight at first sniff, requiring a good amount of air to begin to reveal profound notions of stewed black plums, mulberries and black cherry compote, plus hints of black truffles, damp soil, tobacco leaf and chargrill with an emerging waft of cedar. The full-bodied palate is a full-on volcano of black fruit and molten rock waiting to erupt, with a solid frame of firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing with amazing length. There is a lot going on here, but it is a wine for the patient. Give it a good 5-7 years in bottle, at least, and drink it over the next 30+ years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPClosed and coiled right now, with ripped layers of fruit. A ton of graphite, bitter dark chocolate and finessed berry fruits. Definitely need to give this time and respect its muscular from. A seriously impressive Clinet that has held its form over ageing. Drinking Window 2026 - 2045.Decanter | 97 DECBlackberries and blueberries with subtle black chocolate and violets on the nose, following to a full-bodied palate with polished, creamy tannins. Beautiful balance and really refined texture. Drink after 2024, but already so gorgeous.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2018 Clinet, which was cropped at 38hl/ha, has an exquisite bouquet of lavish black cherry and raspberry fruit, and still those bunches of violets I observed from barrel, flanked by potpourri. The aromatics are well defined and the new oak seamlessly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It has firmed up since I tasted in barrel, when I noted that it felt like a "muscular" Clinet in the making. That trait is emphasized in bottle, and those accustomed to the more hedonistic Clinets of yore might find it a tad more reserved and drier. But it is a style that suits it well. White pepper leaves the mouth tingling after it has departed, the fitting conclusion to a superb – dare I say cerebral? – Clinet that has a long and prosperous future.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis is a powerful, densely structured wine. Rich in tannins, full of dark black fruits and ripe acidity, the wine is impressively complete. It has considerable promise. Drink this wine from 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE

The 2018 Clos de l’Oratoire is an absolutely gorgeous wine that needs quite some time to release all of its aromatic intensity, nuance and energy. Bright floral notes soar over a core of dense, red-toned fruit as the 2018 gradually shows off its considerable allure. The 2018 is vivid and striking, with character to burn.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThe team of Stephan von Neipperg knocked it out of the park in 2018, producing a brilliant lineup of wines. The 2018 Clos De L’Oratoire checks in as 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc that was brought up in 45% new French oak. As with most of the new releases here, it has a crunchy, vibrant style in its blue fruits, scorched earth, violets, cedarwood, and dried flower-like aromas and flavors. Beautifully balanced, pure, elegant, and seamless, this incredibly classy Saint-Emilion is going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age (if not longer) and evolve for 30 years in cold cellars. It’s certainly in the running for the finest vintage I’ve tasted.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JDAromas of fresh blackberries, dried leaves, bitter chocolate, lemon zest and walnuts. Some wet earth, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm, fine-grained tannins. Tight, focused layers. Rather juicy wine. Better from 2025.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2018 Clos de l’Oratoire sports a deep garnet-purple color and rock-star nose of plum preserves, chocolate-covered cherries and mulberries, plus hints of candied violets, licorice and Sichuan pepper with a waft of tapenade. The medium to full-bodied palate is laden with juicy black fruits plus loads of exotic spice and earthy accents, supported by very ripe, soft tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and fragrant.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA mix of dried herb, floral and steeped cherry and damson plum notes is layered tightly together, while mouthwatering sanguine and iron hints run alongside. Sandalwood edge to the finish. A long, very precise, mineral-driven style. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2032. 4,000 cases made. Wine Spectator | 93 WSDeep plum colour, this has the rich texture and multi-layered dried herbs and spice feel that you often get with Clos de l’Oratoire. Juicy damson fruits come in through the mid palate and this is big and confident, and well balanced by slate minerality through the finish. Drinking Window 2024 - 2040.Decanter | 93 DEC

Currants, spiced cherries, cloves, dried flowers and bark on the nose. Full-bodied with firm, powdery tannins. Creamy with concentrated spice notes. Builds on the palate. Lots going on. Better from 2024.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2018 Clos des Jacobins is absolutely gorgeous. Soft, supple and beautifully textured, the 2018 shows off its stylish personality with real aplomb. Succulent dark cherry, mocha, espresso, spice and gravel meld together in a creamy Saint-Émilion that is a real pleasure to taste today. A kiss of well-judged French oak lingers on the persistent finish. Antonio Galloni | 93 AGSmooth, rich and mouthfilling, with a flash of heat through the finish but balanced by a juicy ripe fruit character with a ton of brambled blackberry and blueberry, and rich black cherry coulis. This is broad-shouldered, but it carries it off. A yield of 45hl/ha, 75% new oak. Drinking Window 2024 - 2042.Decanter | 92 DECDeep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Clos des Jacobins needs a little swirling to unlock notions of blackberry pie, black raspberries and mulberries with hints of wild sage, cast-iron pan and charcoal plus a waft of tobacco leaf. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers bags of herb infused black fruits, with an approachable, grainy texture and fantastic freshness, finishing long and earthy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe 2018 Clos Des Jacobins is another ripe, concentrated, sexy wine in the vintage. Notes of smoked black fruits, tobacco, chocolate, and scorched earth all emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a rich, mouthfilling texture, ripe tannins, and a good finish. Everything is in the right place, I like its balance, and it should keep for a good decade. I’d give bottles a few years in the cellar to integrate some of its oak, which emerges more with time in the glass.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD

The star of the show in 2018 is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Combe Des Fous and it has an incredible mix of complexity, power, and elegance that’s something to behold. Sporting a deep purple/plum color as well as a killer bouquet of blackcurrants, lavender, peppery garrigue, graphite, and white chocolate, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a seamless, multi-dimensional texture, incredible tannins, and a gorgeous finish. This is a good as 2018 gets and while it’s already impossible to resist, it’s going to evolve for 15+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous features electric aromas of garrigue, exotic stone fruit, pomegranate, black cherries and perhaps even a touch of rose petals. Full-bodied and rich without being overly weighty or dense, plush and velvety on the finish yet vibrant and complex, this magnificent effort should drink well for at least a decade. From vines planted in 1905, it’s approximately 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Vaccarèse.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPOpaque ruby. A powerfully scented bouquet displays mineral-accented boysenberry and Chambord scents complemented by suggestions of pungent flowers, Indian spices and incense. Intense red/blue fruit preserve, cherry cola and fruitcake flavors show superb definition and silky texture. Comes off graceful despite its depth and finishes on a repeating floral note, displaying outstanding persistence and bright, mineral lift.Vinous Media | 95 VMA mix of steeped plum and black cherry fruit mixes with tobacco, chestnut and melted licorice notes. There’s a touch of burl at first, but this quickly unwinds with air, showing a velvety edge on the finish. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Vaccarèse. Best from 2021 through 2033. 409 cases made, 45 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.Vinous Media | 97-99 VM(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A ripe and super-fresh nose offers up notes of black raspberry, plum liqueur, Asian-style tea and a whiff of incense. The racy, intense and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors retain outstanding delineation as well as an abundance of palate soaking dry extract before delivering stunningly good length where an interesting hint of citrus character in the form of mandarin orange appears. This incredibly powerful effort is both classy and highly complex and like the Bonnes Mares, is a wine that will live for decades. With that said, it’s not so backward and compact to preclude it being approachable after only 10 to 12 years. A knockout by any standard. (Drink starting 2043)Burghound | 97 BHAll the vines that are used to produce this extensive cuvée of Musigny are over 25 years’ old, so it always has good concentration. But in 2018, it’s an especially big, dense, powerful wine with masses of inky colour, assertive one-third new oak, plenty of plush bramble and black cherry fruit, undertones of sweet spices and liquorice and a chalky flourish. Needs time. Drinking Window 2026 - 2033.Decanter | 95 DEC(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes was also in fine form at the time of my visit, as the racking for this cuvée was just starting and there were plenty of untouched casks to choose from for sampling. The wine is very deep and still very primary on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet wafting from the glass in a sappy blend of black cherries, sweet dark berries, dark chocolate, gamebird, woodsmoke, soil and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off excellent mid-palate depth of sappy fruit, with good mineral drive, ripe, seamless and buried tannins, fine focus and grip and a long, focused and classy finish. All this needs is time in the cellar! (Drink between 2038-2085).John Gilman | 95 JG

Aromas of blackberries, blueberries, herbs and cedar. It’s full-bodied with elegant tannins. Fleshy and well balanced on the palate. Beautiful, pure fruit at the finish. Second wine of Talbot. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 92 JSBright, ripe and defined, with bay, violet, cassis and dark plum fruit all racing along in unison. Excellent energy and tension through the finish. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2028. 18,335 cases made. Wine Spectator | 90 WSFilled with gourmet notes of chocolate shavings and brioche, with sweet black fruits and firm tannins. This is an enjoyable second wine with well-ripened fruits and a charcoal edge through the finish. A little austere as things close out. The tannins have a pretty muscular bite to them. (Drink between 2023-2036)Decanter | 90 DECThe 2018 Connétable de Talbot has a fragrant bouquet with black cherries, blueberry and light crushed stone aromas. The oak is nicely integrated (15%). The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and plenty of freshness on the structured, graphite tinged finish. This is simply the best Connétable de Talbot that I have tasted.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM