Red Wines

wines

he 2019 Ovello Riserva is succulent and enveloping, offering scents of dark-skinned berry, forest floor, violet and new leather. Full-bodied with impressive structure and fruit, it boasts ripe raspberry, black cherry and licorice supported by firm, close-grained tannins that provide the backbone. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The lovely 2019 Pora Riserva from Produttori del Barbaresco offers delicate scents recalling ripe red fruit, culinary spice, new leather and violet while the refined palate features juicy raspberry, liquor soaked cherry and licorice. Tightly-knit, velvety tannins provide enveloping support. Pora is known for its softer tannins and smoother character thank to its more fertile soil, and the these traits come through even in 2019, a vintage known for yielding wines with youthful austerity. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is a pretty tightly wound wine, certainly moreso than is typically the case for this Barbaresco, which is often much more engaging in the early going. Dried herbs, tobacco, cedar and earthiness lend notable savory nuance in this decidedly nervy, somber Pora. There’s good fruit intensity and plenty of character that makes me want to revisit this in a few months’ time.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is one of the most elegant, polished wines in this range. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, mint and cedar are beautifully lifted. The tannins are remarkably polished for a young, recently bottled Riserva. I admire its poise and elegance. This is an especially refined edition of the Montestefano. In 2020, the mix of vineyards is a bit younger than in the past, as one of the blocks of older vineyards was replanted and not used. If I could have only one of the Riservas in 2020, this would be it!Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2020 Produttori Montestefano Riserva is absolutely gorgeous, boasting aromas of violet, forest floor, red-skinned fruit and new leather. On the palate, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity support raspberry compote, red cherry, white pepper and star anise. This has a slightly more delicate tannic structure compared to previous vintages that’s not only a feature of the vintage but also due to the fact that a parcel of fifty-year-old vines had to be replanted, meaning the average age of the vines for the 2020 vintage is 35-40 years old. Drink 2026–2032. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOA haunting aroma of rose leads off, underscored with raspberry, cherry, white pepper and mineral flavors. This red is elegant and firmly structured, with refined tannins and vibrant acidity driving the resonant finish. The white pepper note returns on the aftertaste. Shows superb balance and length. Best from 2028 through 2045. 1,358 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSIn this year and at this stage, the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is not as full as the Montefico, which is the reverse of most years. A deep ruby/red color, it reveals notes of black raspberries, toasted spice, crushed flowers, and sweet earth. The palate is lush and inviting, with a refined and approachable feel. It has a lot more approachability at this stage than you’d expect, with velvety tannins and a long, floating finish. While the palate has less weight, it has an underlying nervous tension, with mouthwatering notes of sanguine, iron-rich mineral accents. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JDNormally, Produttori del Barbaresco President Aldo Vacca puts Montefico, Rabajà, Muncagota and Montestefano at the end of his flight of Riservas. But in this year’s presentation, he put the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano fourth to last instead of last. This wine is usually the darkest and the most austere in the series. However, the 2020 does not live up to its usual flavor profile. The aromas are quite ripe, even overripe, with prune and raisin. The tannins are soft, leading to a succulent and chewy mouthfeel. My recommendation is to give this wine a shorter drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The nose of the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is quite expressive and spiced, showing very nicely with ripe aromas of wild raspberries, cherries, fresh herbs, and blood orange spice. The palate gains in intensity, with good energy and a mineral drive. A very successful wine in this vintage, it’s going to have plenty of life over the next 15-20 years. 13,333 bottles were produced.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAromas of pine forest, dark spice, new leather and hint of truffle form the enticing nose on the impressive 2020 Rio Sordo Riserva. On the palate, taut extremely refined tannins accompany pomegranate, strawberry, citrus and star anise. Drink 2026–2032. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo comes from an area that is further removed from the Tanaro River and has southwestern exposures. It shows a typical profile for Nebbiolo with rich fruit, a velvety mouthfeel and textural volume that is delivered with ample blackberry, blackcurrant and spice. The character of this wine is generous and rich. There is plenty of meat on these bones.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is pretty closed today, which is probably a very good sign for its aging prospects, as this site tends to produce wines that are more open than this. Dark cherry, plum, leather, incense and tobacco offer a decidedly somber expression of Rio Sordo. The 2020 clearly needs time.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis red bursts with cherry, strawberry and rose aromas and flavors, plus mineral, white pepper and anise elements. Firm and lively, showing accessibility and harmony. Enjoyable now, but there’s no rush. Best from 2026 through 2040. 1,111 cases made, 198 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2021 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is a dense, hulking wine. Powerful and dense to the core, the Montestefano is a big, broad-shouldered wine that is going to need a few years to be at its most expressive. Dark-toned fruit, new leather, spice, menthol are all amplified in this potent Barbaresco.Vinous Media | 97 VMYouthful on the nose, showing bright, lively aromas of red and dark fruits, leafy lightness, wild strawberries and black cherries with a whiff of blood oranges and earthy, chocolaty depth. The gorgeous full-bodied palate, structured and extracted, has firm, velvety tannins and tense acidity, leading to a balanced, endless, licorice finish. March 2026 release. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS

You’ll find compelling aromas of rosemary, hay, camphor and crushed mint on the intensely fragrant and fabulous 2021 Muncagota. Full-bodied and loaded with energy, the savory palate features ripe red cherry, black raspberry, citrus and dark spice as well as the rosemary note from the nose. Firm, well-integrated tannins provide support and give the finish grip. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOBalsamic style jumps out of the glass, with herb, eucalyptus and potpourri aromas alongside watermelon and mint-filled chocolate. The graceful attack shows ripe, elegant tannins, larger-grained in the end, with long, refreshing acidity and a savory finish. March 2026 release. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is laced with strong floral and savory notes. Brisk acids and beams of supporting tannin give the 2021 its driving, tense personality. I expect those qualities will be positives for the future, but today the Muncagota is pretty forbidding. Give this time. This is one of the most tense editions of this wine I can remember tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The compelling 2021 Ovello Riserva from Produttori del Barbaresco opens with captivating aromas of dark culinary spice, underbrush, rose and mentholated notes. Delicious and full-bodied, the palate doles out ripe Marasca cherry, cranberry, star anise and ground clove. Firm, well-integrated tannins lend just the right amount of grip while fresh acidity keeps it bright and balanced. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2021 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello sizzles with tension right out of the gate. Orange peel, mint, chalk, white pepper and crushed rocks are all finely sketched. Bright and sinewy to the core, the 2021 captures the purest essence of Ovello. It’s another stellar wine in this range. The Ovello will appeal most to readers who like tense wines.Vinous Media | 96 VMRestrained if not austere, showing dark fruit, earthy tones and cherries with almost wild blackberries and a whiff of blood oranges. Full-bodied. The attack is dense and velvety with thick, firm tannins that are dusty yet ripe. Powerful but well-balanced at the end, with a mouth-coating texture. March 2026 release, but will need another year or two to be ready to drink.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2021 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is dark, powerful and explosive. That’s the good news. Readers will have to be patient with this brooding, sepia-toned Barbaresco. Dark fruit, graphite, new leather, licorice, scorched earth and gravel add to an impression of muscular gravitas. The 2021 needs a bit of time in the glass to start opening, but when it does, it’s magnificent.Vinous Media | 97+ VMYouthful and pure, a bit austere at the moment, showing earthy minerality, dark chocolate, restrained black cherries and red currants with Earl Grey tea aromas. Full-bodied and vibrant, this has elegant, velvety tannins, refreshing acidity and stunning savoriness with almost meaty depth. The multilayered, juicy finish is full of fruit, flowers and licorice. Not easy, yet outstanding. March 2026 release. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe most structured and brooding Riserva from Produttori del Barbaresco, the 2021 Rabajà Riserva offers enticing scents of new leather, red cherry, citrus and forest floor that carry over to the full-bodied palate along with ripe raspberry, star anise and ground clove. Firm, well-integrated but clenching tannins provide the backbone. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KO