Red Wines

wines

The Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2019 Barolo Bussia opens to a fragrant bouquet with wild rose and lilac. Those pretty high-toned aromas are followed by redcurrant and earthy licorice. Bussia is a very large MGA site, and there are dozens of little microclimates and nuances within this one vineyard. This wine embraces a very graceful and ethereal side of Bussia that tightens on the palate to show age-worthy structure. Production is 10,600 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPAromas of mature black-skinned fruit, new leather, tobacco and cedar waft out of the glass. On the full-bodied palate, firm, refined tannins amply support dried cherry, pomegranate, licorice and hazelnut while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Give it a few more years to fully develop. Drink 2027–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOPoderi Luigi Einaudi is finding a new postmodern identity, using concrete and big oak casks with a more classic 30 months of ageing allied to precise winemaking. This Bussia is restrained with cinnamon, violet and red currant aromas. The palate is very savoury and elegant, with a polite extraction and amazing tension on the finish. A delicious Barolo, quite surprisingly ready to drink given the vintage and site.Decanter | 94 DECShows serious grip, courtesy of dense, assertive tannins, with cherry, grass, iron and tobacco notes holding court, while vivid acidity keeps everything focused. The fruit returns on the austere finish. Best from 2027 through 2045. 1,325 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2019 Barolo Bussia is incredibly tight and austere. Dark red cherry fruit, sage, blood orange, mint and cinnamon open gradually as the 2019 starts to show its stuff with some aeration. Complex and mysterious, the Bussia is full of intrigue.Vinous Media | 92 VMDespite the slightly light color, it’s a perfumed, fresh and pretty red with fine tannins. Medium body. Firm, fresh and fine. Slightly austere at the end. Needs three or four years to soften. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 92 JS

Here’s an exciting new project from Poderi Luigi Einaudi that I have been looking forward to tasting ever since I learned this historic winery was lucky enough to secure fruit in what is surely the most sought-after MGA in the appellation, Monvigliero in Verduno. The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero Stefano Arienti 125 Anniversary Collection (with a minimalist artistic front label) needs time to open because the wine is rather closed on first nose. With coaxing and patience, it eventually opens to pressed rose, iris root, white licorice and wild berry. The tannins are grippy and tight. I went back to taste this wine several times from an open bottle over the course of 24 hours. Production is 10,300 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPRipe dark-skinned fruit, cardamom, violet and new leather aromas lift out of the glass on this full-bodied, fragrant red. Structured and elegant, the enveloping palate offers ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, nutmeg and star anise wrapped in firm, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOSleek and firmly built, this red offers cherry, plum, earth and eucalyptus flavors. Ripe and balanced, ending with hints of licorice and tobacco. Compact finish for now, with vivid acidity. Best from 2026 through 2043. 1,290 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSPerfumed and attractive with orange peel and dried strawberries. Fresh roses as well. Lovely delicacy to the vintage with finesse and beauty. Creamy and fine-tannined. Bright finish. Drinkable but much better in 2026.James Suckling | 93 JSTasting note not provided. | 93 W&SThe 2019 Barolo Monvigliero exudes depth and character. Like all of these Barolos, the 2019 is quite austere in the early going. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s natural volume and a good bit of whole cluster savoriness as well. The 2019 is very clearly an infant, but it is quite promising. Dried herbs, rose petal, mint, sage and dried herbs lend aromatic presence to this super-expressive Barolo.Vinous Media | 92 VM