Red Wines

wines

The 1998 Cheval Blanc, a blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc, is deep garnet-brick in color and absolutely explodes with scents of exotic spices, incense, dried roses, cigar box and licorice, with a core of crème de cassis and dried cherries plus touches of black tea and dusty earth. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the mouth with rich, plushly textured fruit and then POW—it hits the mid-palate with an explosion of Chinese five spice and floral perfume sparks, leading to an epically long finish. This cannot fail to impress and can easily cellar for another 30 years or more.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPAnother perfect wine is the 1998 Chateau Cheval Blanc, which is the usual blend of 55/45 Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Possessing an utterly captivating bouquet of sweet red and black fruits, forest floor, spice and dried flowers, it packs plenty of muscle and depth on the palate, yet is also expansive, elegant and seamless, with no hard edges. Just singing, with everything you could want; complexity, richness, elegance, depth, and length, drink this sensational beauty any time over the coming two decades. I’m sure it will keep longer, but why in the world would you wait.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe reference chateau of the vintage, this wine is showing its class here and then some. It was the first year with Bernard Arnault and Albert Frère as owners, with Pierre Lurton coming onboard from his former role at Clos Fourtet. 10% press wine was used, whereas today they use no press wine in the grand vin. It was aged in 100% new oak. The 36ha of vines yielded 32hl/ha, closer to their average than the relatively abundant 1989). The holdings have since expanded to 39ha with the addition of 3ha from Tour du Pin Figeac. 67% of production went in to the grand vin, the rest into Petit Cheval. This is seductive and rich but with a purity and precision. There’s more Merlot in the blend than is typical because the clay soils produced the best quality grapes, and you can see its impact in the textural density - the proximity to Pomerol comes through. Drinking Window 2019 - 2036Decanter | 100 DECAromas of blueberry, sweet tobacco, leather and pipe tobacco turning to raisins and Christmas cake. What a wine. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a very well-integrated palate. Dark color. A big and powerful wine still. Blockbuster. Massive. Just a baby.—’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2013. 8,330 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSAromas of rose petal and hints of fresh herbs such currant leaf. Tobacco, too. Medium body, very fine tannins and a balanced fruit. Extremely refined and polished. A beautiful harmony. So lovely now.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 1998 Cheval Blanc has been a lauded wine ever since release. I have often, quite controversially felt that it never quite matched its startling performances in its first ten years, though it remains and excellent wine. Now at 20-years old it offers opulent, high-toned scents of maraschino cherry, iodine, crème de cassis, dried blood and a subtle, almost Provençal herb-like scent courtesy of the Cabernet Franc. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip, showy compared to other vintages of Cheval Blanc with sappy red fruit and a fine structured that lends this 1998 focus. Perhaps this bottle did not quite deliver the intensity on the finish that I was expecting, "jogging" instead of "sprinting" over the finish line. That said, it is a very impressive wine, even if personally I would not put it amongst the very best wines that Pierre Lurton has overseen. Tasted at Cheval Blanc.Vinous Media | 95+ VMNo written review provided. | 95 W&S

The debut vintage for their luxury old-vine cuvee, which is over 90% Grenache, but in theory made from all 13 authorized red wine varietals in Chateauneuf du Pape, the 1998 Cuvee da Capo is a monumental Chateauneuf du Pape. It was actually splendid to drink in its first 5-6 years of life, and then shut down very firmly, and is now just coming out of this dormant period. It is much more delineated than it was in its fat, grapy, almost overripe youthful state, and now shows extraordinary precision and definition. It is still a massive wine, opaque ruby/purple to the rim, with notes of camphor, meat juices, roasted herbs, licorice, pepper, and spice. Thick, unctuously textured, but with zesty acidity and sweet tannin, the wine is still very young, and not yet an adolescent. This is one 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape that will age for 30-40 years, and no doubt be prodigious with another decade of cellaring.Robert Parker | 100 RPThis monster has a brooding nose of freshly drawn espresso, cedar, brick dust and cocoa powder, with roasted pheasant, garrigue and tar notes. The massively structured finish is dense, chewy and still very tight, with a rusty iron note that hasn’t been fully absorbed yet.--1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape retrospective. Best from 2010 through 2030. 500 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSSaturated dark ruby. Nose like a fruit essence: blackberry and blueberry liqueur, licorice, pepper, Provencal herbs, and hints of more exotic fruits. A wine of extreme unctuousity, virtually too large for the mouth. Suggestion of marc, but with sappy fruits and great solid underlying structure. The tannins saturate the palate on the peppery finish. Very much in the style of Bonneau rarely made Cuvee Speciale. This wine took nearly two years to finish fermenting. Paul Feraud told me he feared that the alcohol would burn, that there would be too much residual sugar, and that the wine would show signs of premature oxidation. But in fact this headspinner (and I mean that in the purest, Linda Blair sense) boasts great surmaturite without quite descending into madness.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe first vintage for this cuvee, and more refined and silky than the Cuvée Laurence, but with a slightly riper profile, 1998 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Da Capo exhibits a fantastically complex bouquet of kirsch and overripe plum liqueur with meat juice, charred steak, licorice, and spice aromas showing more with air. Full-bodied on the palate, and not showing much baby fat, the wine possesses sweet fruit, a silky, streamlined texture, and a long finish where more of the wines underlying structure and length show. While a gorgeous showing, this lacked some mid-palate depth and richness, especially when compared to the Cuvée Laurence.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JD