Red Wines

wines

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) is absolutely delicious. Ripe, radiant and seductive, the 2015 is going to be nearly impossible to resist young. Even so, there is plenty of structural underpinning beneath all of the fruit. Sweet floral notes develop in the glass, adding lift, but above all else, the 2015 is a wine of textural voluptuousness, all in a silky, mid-weight style that is hugely appealing.Antonio Galloni | 93 AG

Checking in as 62% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc that was brought up in roughly 70% new oak, the 2015 Château Laroze is straight up gorgeous. Cassis, black cherries, spring flowers, lead pencil shavings and hints of tobacco all give way to a ripe, sexy, concentrated Saint-Emilion that has sweet, polished tannin, plenty of mid-palate depth and a great finish. This beauty builds with time in the glass, is seamless, and just a sensational drink.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe medium to deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Laroze hits the ground running with vibrant, expressive red currants, black raspberries and warm plums scents with touches of violets, chocolate-covered cherries and lavender plus a waft of fallen leaves. Medium-bodied, finely crafted and elegantly styled with plush, come-hither tannins and plenty of youthful, exuberant red and black fruit layers, it finishes with bags of perfume and polish. Very classy!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPBalance and focus to this medium to full-bodied red with chocolate, plums and cedar undertones. Firm and polished tannins. Savory finish. Drink in 2020.James Suckling | 92 JSAn attack of ripe berries, cherries and plums with underlying coffee notes; dense and structured with firm tannins. Drinking Window 2024 - 2037.Decanter | 90 DEC

(bottled in April of 2017): Medium red. Deep, iron-like musky minerality complements crushed strawberry, raspberry and brown spices on the nose. Hugely rich, tactile wine with a 3-D texture to its explosive flavors of red fruits, spices and stony minerality. Surprising sweetness is perfectly countered by healthy acidity. Finishes extremely long, with broad, noble tannins saturating the front teeth. Nothing heavy about this Chambertin! Incidentally, Duband told me that his 2015 village wines have closed up more quickly than this wine, which he says has benefited from "the magic of vendange entier").Vinous Media | 94+ VMGenerous wood and menthol presently fight somewhat with the liqueur-like aromas of various dark berries and floral scents, in particular rose petal, lavender and violet. Once again the mouth feel of the broad-shouldered flavors is sleek and sophisticated yet this does not lack for power or mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a palate coating and mineral-driven finish that is absolutely built-to-age so plenty of patience will be required.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Sweet, intense cherry nose, with more overt charm and fruitiness than his Gevreys. Concentrated and firm, with good depth of fruit and chocolatey hints. The tannins are robust but not harsh, while the acidity just lacks a little drive. Forceful yet harmonious, with good length.Decanter | 94 DECWhile not invisible, the wood influence is moderate and should integrate with a few years of bottle age as it frames the floral-inflected red currant aromas that display undertones of earth and a slight sauvage character. There is a caressing yet powerful mouthfeel to the naturally sweet, full-bodied and nicely precise flavors that offer excellent intensity on the driving and youthfully austere though slightly warm finish. Patience is definitely recommended.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes 40% whole bunches and 70% new oak. It is more open and expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin from barrel, with carefree red berry fruit, sage, orange rind and almost granitic aromas that are very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, the oak a little prominent in the latter stages, although there is clearly enough fruit to soak that up. Give this 5-7 years in bottle if you can.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(40% vendange entier; 70% new oak): Dark red with ruby highlights. Brooding, rather medicinal aromas of dark cherry and saline minerality; less floral than the Gevrey samples. Ripe and tactile for young Clos Vougeot but showing more dark chocolate and salty minerality in the early going than primary fruits. Finishes adamantly dry, with big, dusty tannins that will require substantial bottle aging to soften.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Sweet, intense cherry nose, with more overt charm and fruitiness than his Gevreys. Concentrated and firm, with good depth of fruit and chocolatey hints. The tannins are robust but not harsh, while the acidity just lacks a little drive. Forceful yet harmonious, with good length.Decanter | 94 DECWhile not invisible, the wood influence is moderate and should integrate with a few years of bottle age as it frames the floral-inflected red currant aromas that display undertones of earth and a slight sauvage character. There is a caressing yet powerful mouthfeel to the naturally sweet, full-bodied and nicely precise flavors that offer excellent intensity on the driving and youthfully austere though slightly warm finish. Patience is definitely recommended.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes 40% whole bunches and 70% new oak. It is more open and expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin from barrel, with carefree red berry fruit, sage, orange rind and almost granitic aromas that are very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, the oak a little prominent in the latter stages, although there is clearly enough fruit to soak that up. Give this 5-7 years in bottle if you can.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(40% vendange entier; 70% new oak): Dark red with ruby highlights. Brooding, rather medicinal aromas of dark cherry and saline minerality; less floral than the Gevrey samples. Ripe and tactile for young Clos Vougeot but showing more dark chocolate and salty minerality in the early going than primary fruits. Finishes adamantly dry, with big, dusty tannins that will require substantial bottle aging to soften.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2015 Charmes-Chambertin from Jean-Marie Fourrier was also showing very well at the time of my visit. The bouquet is deep, pure and complex, offering up a very red fruity blend of strawberries, cherries, a touch of orange peel, grilled meat, a fine base of soil tones, raw cocoa and cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very refined in profile, with a lovely core, excellent backend minerality and a very long, focused and ripely tannic finish. Marvelous Charmes in the making. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe 2015 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is the first release from the estate (on the negociant side). It has a slightly smudged but pure kirsch, orange blossom and strawberry-scented bouquet that gains more delineation with aeration in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp red cherry and strawberry fruit with a touch of spice on the composed and elegant finish. This is a comely Charmes-Chambertin that is certain to be seductive over the next 15-20 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP(real Charmes): Dark red. Good violet lift to the black cherry aroma. Not yet hugely complex but rich, juicy and energetic, showing attractive inner-mouth floral lift and excellent definition. At once firm and quite suave. These négociant grand crus from Gevrey were harvested up to nine days later than the Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses, noted Fourrier, but today I find a bit less energy in the Amoureuses.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA background application of wood sets off distinctly earthy, forest floor and humus-infused plum and dark currant aromas. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the caressing, round and vibrant flavors that possess fine richness and persistence if not quite the same complexity or persistence. Even so, this is certainly a quality effort.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets was showing very well from bottle, wafting from the glass with notes of raspberry, cherry, spice and orange rind that offer little hint of the savory complexity to come with bottle age. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, structured around juicy acids and a fine-grained but firm chassis of tannins that asserts itself on the finish. Fremiets sits above the Clos des Angles, and its shallower soils tend to issue in wines with notable crunch and tension.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP(Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay "Frémiets" 1er Cru Red) A notably ripe nose stops just short of surmaturité while displaying notes of plum, black cherry, earth and a pretty lashing of spice elements. There is a bit more size, weight and mid-palate stuffing to the velvety and palate soaking flavors that are shaped by a markedly firm tannic spine on the gorgeously persistent finale where the only nit is a barely discernible hint of warmth. Lovely but once again, patience required. (Drink starting 2030).Burghound | 92-94 BHBright ruby. Blackberry, licorice and violet on the perfumed nose. Fine-grained and suave, but with terrific inner-mouth floral lift giving the middle palate a sense of energy. The wine's finishing sweetness is leavened by saline minerality and noteworthy grip. Really spreads out to saturate the mouth; an outstanding example of this premier cru.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMLes Fremiets sits above the Clos des Angles, and the soils here are shallower. The resulting fruit tones are higher-pitched, with red plum and raspberry complicated by scents of pipe tobacco and raw cocoa. The tannic structure is more savoury and fine-grained, enrobed in less fat and texture, but with lovely focus and energy. Drinking Window 2025 - 2050.Decanter | 91 DEC

Medium ruby. Slightly reduced, extremely primary aromas of blueberry and fruity bitter chocolate. Juicy on entry, then extremely tight and unevolved in the middle palate, with the density of a black hole. This lightly saline wine finishes with outstanding mineral punch and palate-staining length, not to mention great finesse of tannins. There's nothing dry about this beauty. Offers amazing potential. The crop level here was 26 hectoliters per hectare, according to Guillaume d'Angerville.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is just as stylish as the Caillerets and even a bit more complex with its pure and equally elegant blend of red currant, dark raspberry, violet and equally spicy nose. The rich and powerful yet refined flavors possess first-rate mid-palate concentration along with an almost piercing minerality that really comes up on the youthfully austere, backward and strikingly persistent finale. About the only reproach that I noticed was a subtle hint of warmth but otherwise, this is absolutely lovely.Burghound | 95 BHThe 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds, which Guillaume described as his "odd child" since the vineyard is higher up than others, and tends to be more reserved and masculine, was in fact quite expressive when I tasted it—offering vibrant red berry fruit, minerals and boysenberry. There is wonderful definition here. The palate is tensile right from the beginning. There is not as much depth as the Caillerets - this is quite nimble and full of nervosité, before settling towards a pure blackberry finish that lingers in the mouth. This should age with panache.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 95 RP-NMThis expressive, solid red is fragrant, with black currant, blackberry and violet aromas. Firm and lean, this nonetheless shows balance and a fresh profile, ending with echoes of fruit and an emerging mineral element. Best from 2023 through 2040. 40 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe Taillepieds is beautiful this year, with a cool and reserved bouquet of fruits of the forest, black cherry, dark soil, juniper, bitter chocolate and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is vibrant, with beautiful cut and tension. It is deep, full-bodied and elegantly structured, with an expansive, sapid finish.Decanter | 92 DEC

Fresh grapes only. It’s hard to believe this is their first vintage from rented vines high up at San Giorgio. Magnificent aromas of woodsmoke, aniseed, clove and black pepper and intense, juicy red fruit flavours. Drinking Window 2019 - 2027.Decanter | 94 DEC

A classic, herb-tinged Cabernet nose. Discreet currant notes are backed up by savoury-earthy tones. Rich and juicy on the palate but balanced by well-built and muscular tannins. Showy, with a mountain edge.Decanter | 96 DECThis is a big and rich cab but shows the coolness of the Mt. Veeder area with fresh mushroom, tobacco and currant character. Full-bodied, tight and focused. Long and flavorful finish. The balance of tannin and fruit is right on. Drink in 2020.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Single Vineyard is also beautiful, and probably my favorite in the lineup. Crème de cassis, black cherries, violets, incense, and spring flower notes all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, beautifully complete, layered 2015 that has bright acidity, present, firm tannin, impeccable balance and a great finish. Hide bottles for 4-5 years and drink over the following 15+.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder Single Vineyard opens with warm cassis, blueberry compote and black forest cake notes with hints of spice box and cigars. Medium-bodied with good intensity, it has just enough fruit and firm tannins, and the finish is long and savory.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPDusty leather and an Old World savory and feral nose, are accented by dried herb and pyrazine in this sinewy red. Pencil shavings, cedar and black olive stay on the classic theme, with plush, expansive tannins gripping the palate with finesse.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2015 Late Bottled Vintage Port is a field blend aged for 48 months in old Portuguese vats. It was bottled in April 2019, unfiltered, with 84 grams of sugar and a bar-top cork. Powerful and intense, this opens up with concentrated, slightly jammy fruit supported by a serious backbone. If I tasted this blind, I might have assumed this tightly wound LBV was a Vintage Port, at least a modest one. The fruit is rich and expressive. The wine is nowhere near peak. Given its potential for aging and development, I’m surprised it does not have a normal, long cork. Barring cork issues, it should age well. The only remaining question is whether it will develop well. We’ll be a bit conservative just now. There were 8,500 bottles produced. Not imported, this runs around 23 euros in Portugal.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Moderately saturated bright red. Herbs, red fruit and minerals on the refined nose. Then also quite elegant in the mouth, where floral nuances lift the red and blue fruit flavors. Finishes long with herbal notes that add complexity.Vinous Media | 92 VMSubtle and flavorful with spice, white-pepper and dark-berry aromas and flavors. Medium to full body. Firm tannins. Polished and delicious. Why wait? Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS