Several years ago, when I was still living in Sag Harbor, New York, a colleague invited me to an early dinner so we could try a bottle he recently picked up. He kept telling me, “it’s like nothing else man! You’re going to love it!” At this point, I had been in the wine business for several years, and I had heard this proclamation many, many times usually followed by some level of disappointment.
Thinking back on that day, I know that the restaurant was on Bay Street, but I can’t recall the name of the place. I also can’t remember what entrée I ordered or even the other bottle we opened that evening. What I do remember though is the unbelievably gorgeous nose on the bottle of white that my colleague opened and the name becoming forever etched into my head that day…“Guigal Condrieu la Doriane.” It was one of those wines that instantly becomes a benchmark; a wine to which all others in its category shall forever be compared. To this day anytime someone tastes me on a white Northern Rhone, my mind immediately goes back to that bottle of 2006 Guigal Condrieu la Doriane. “Does the nose measure up? How about the color? Is the finish anywhere close in depth and length?” Time and time again, I have found that the only white Northern Rhone in my opinion that measures up to the standard set that day is another bottle of “La Doriane”. So I’m sure you can understand my excitement when I saw that the 99-point 2015 vintage recently arrived in stock. I grabbed one of the first bottles available and emailed my wife, “I can’t wait for you to try this bottle! It’s like nothing else you’ve had!”
In order to understand what makes la Doriane markedly different from so many other white wines, you have to understand everything that goes into creating a Condrieu. The region lies among steep hillsides in the northernmost portion of the Rhone valley with only the legendary appellation of Cote-Rotie further north. Condrieu, like few other wine growing regions around the world, has strict standards which must be met in order to call itself a “Condrieu”. The only grape varietal that can go into Condrieu is Viognier, which along with Chateau Grillet, sets it apart from its other northern Rhone white wine peers, which can contain various other varietals such as Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. For me, there is something special about a wine that is produced using only one single varietal as opposed to blending multiple varietals. Condrieu’s lack of manipulation via blending is a pure expression of the regional terroir.
This special terroir is exactly what attracted the Guigal family to begin producing high-level Condrieu. The Guigal name is known worldwide for their incredible lineup of single vineyard Cote Rotie’s commonly referred to as the “La-La’s.” These micro-production wines are some of the most highly regarded and sought-after wines in the world. The decades of experience that the Guigal family has accrued in Cote Rotie is not spared on their Condrieu la Doriane and it is commonly regarded as one of the finest white wines produced anywhere.
The great thing about Condrieu is that it’s generally approachable on release and is typically consumed within the first 5-10 years depending on the quality of the vintage. 2015 was an exceptional vintage for Northern Rhone whites and that quality shines bright here with Jeb Dunnuck of The Wine Advocate declaring the 2015 la Doriane, “Easily one of the greatest Condrieu I’ve ever tasted…” with only the perfect, 100-point 2010 vintage ($179) surpassing the 2015. The 2015 la Doriane is drinking beautifully now and will continue to do so for at least another 8-10 years.
You will recall that I opened up this piece with a story about an incredible bottle of 2006 la Doriane I had, and I mentioned the “unbelievably gorgeous nose” and that I wasn’t sure another bottle could ever measure up to that experience. I can say with 100% certainty that the 2015 vintage blows that 2006 out of the water. As soon as you pull the cork, you immediately catch a hint of what’s to come, but when you raise the glass to your nose, you realize that this is the closest thing possible to a bouquet of flowers in a glass. The aroma is almost indescribable other than to say it’s full of honeysuckle, roses, candied apricot and a thousand other notes that all come together to create an unrivaled sensation. On the palate, there is a perfect balance of minerality and sweetness that combine to create a long, gorgeous finish that continues to evolve and change with every passing second. It’s a wine that’s not only a joy to taste, but a pleasure to study. Even before the finish subsided, I found myself going back for more.
With summer right around the corner, white wine is sure to be flowing. If you’re looking for something different, something other than the usual Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, you have to grab a few bottles of the 2015 E. Guigal Condrieu la Doriane. It’s the perfect partner for shellfish, Mediterranean cuisine or even light salads. La Doriane is perfect for any occasion and I can promise you…It’s like nothing else you’ve had!