White Wines

wines

Tasted from the same lot as in June this year, the 2008 Cuvée des Moines Brut Millésime is very fine on the deep, ripe and elegant nose where the 31% Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier play the first guitar at the moment. This is a very elegant, refined and intense 2008 with a charming dosage. The finish is pure and persistently salty, well-structured and remarkably intense. Impressive and even a touch finer than the sample I had some months ago. Tasted October 2018.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPDominated by rich Chardonnay, this is a ripe wine. Acidity and a mineral texture are foils to the rich apple and green-plum flavors, giving a balance between deliciously crisp and a fuller style. It is just about ready to drink but will be better from 2018.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThis soft and creamy Champagne is open-knit and balanced, with citrusy acidity and subtle flavors of peach skin, candied pink grapefruit zest and blanched almond. Minerally finish. Disgorged December 2016. Drink now through 2027. 150 cases made, 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2014 Chardonnay Los Alamos Vineyard is rich, flavorful and deeply expressive. Orchard fruit, mint, sweet spices and butter notes meld together in a creamy, beautifully layered Chardonnay endowed with marvelous texture. This is an especially racy, almost flamboyant wine from Gavin Chanin. The Los Alamos is usually a bit more reserved, but in 2014 it is very much on the extroverted side of things. Chanin told me the 2014 Los Alamos (at 14.5% alcohol) is the ripest wine he has ever made.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGLight but tropical notes touch on the fluffy nose of this bottling, with papaya-laced marshmallow, pineapple meringue, lemon curd and a sea salt caramel touch. Chamomile, yellow apple skins, yellow flowers, tight mango and lots of saltiness show on the mouth-watering sip. The buttery character grows as it warms up, but it’s delicious in all temperatures.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThere are 26 barrels of the 2014 Chardonnay Los Alamos Vineyard. It’s a terrific Chardonnay that’s from sandy and calcareous soils and spent 12 months in 30% new French oak. Offering lots of buttered orchard fruits, cream corn, white flowers and hints of brioche and oak, it’s medium to full-bodied, nicely textured and rich, with a supple, soft, ready to go feel.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

One of the most distinctive wines in the range, 2014 Chardonnay Dupratt Vineyard is a wine of phenolic intensity and power. Savory herbs, chamomile, mint and crushed rocks are pushed forward, while the fruit lies more in the background. The flavors are remarkably vivid. This is a gorgeous, nuanced Chardonnay from Copain.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGNo written review provided. | 90 W&S

The 2015 Brut Vintage Rosé is generous and demonstrative, bursting with aromas of peach, orange and pear mingled with hints of red berries, fresh bread and ginger. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, it’s rich and enveloping, its textural attack segueing into an ample, fleshy core that’s girdled by bright acids and enlivened by a pillowy mousse. Long and expansive, it’s more generous and gourmand than its racier 2014 predecessor, but just as good.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPure and pretty notes of wild strawberry and nectarine fruit are enriched by hints of marzipan, chalk and pickled ginger in this graceful rosé Champagne. Lithe and expressive, with a fine, lively mousse, this shows lovely balance and a creamy, mineral-laced finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2031. 1,054 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 93 WS(Louis Roederer Rosé Brut Millésime (Reims)) The 2015 vintage of Louis Roederer Rosé is an outstanding wine in the making. The refined and youthful bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of strawberries, tangerine, a touch of blood orange, rye bread, chalky minerality, lovely spice tones and a nice touch of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and nascently complex, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent mineral drive, utterly refined mousse, bouncy acids and a long, seamlessly balanced and vibrant finish. This is approachable out of the blocks, but it is still a young wine and I would opt for tucking it away in the cellar for at least another five years before drinking it in earnest. (Drink between 2026-2055)John Gilman | 93 JGA short maceration with the grape skins adds color and vinous depths of flavor to this earthy wine. It opens to brisk and bold red-fruit flavors that one taster compared to a tibouren rosé from Bandol. Cellar this to bring up its complexities.Wine & Spirits | 92 W&S

Vibrant and harmonious, with a pleasing range of ripe pear and nectarine, toast point and salted almond, candied lemon peel and spun honey riding the finely detailed bead. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2030. 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2015 Champagne Millésime Brut is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The nose is fragrant with ripe peach and rose petal, and it has a rich texture, with a more viscous feel, and note of yellow flowers and Anjou pear. It speaks to the ripeness of the vintage, but it is long on the palate and has a light phenolic finish. I think this is ready to drink now.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThis is a vivid Taittinger with notes of chalk, almond croissants, lemon curd and biscuits. Bright and linear, with a tight bead of bubbles. Focused with persistent pastry notes. 50% pinot noir and 50% chardonnay; 70% Grands Crus and 30% Premiers Crus. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

A layered, fruity chardonnay with creamy, polished tannins, showing beautiful ripe-apple and lemon undertones, as well as hints of toasted oak and vanilla. It’s full-bodied with round, creamy texture and a delicious, complete finish. Minerally undertone. Best white yet from here. This still needs some time to come together. Try in 2022.James Suckling | 94 JSFresh and elegant, this medium- to full-bodied white offers pear and peach flavors, with a honey-tinged edge. Details of floral and baking spice emerge on the crisp, minerally finish. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2021. 3,554 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSPale gold colour. The wine is juicy and refreshing with an attractive depth of fruit. The nose and palate have floral and white fruit aromas with pear again to the fore. The oak is well integrated and the finish clean and dry. It’s a satisfying wine but there’s less depth and length than 2018. Drinking Window 2021 - 2023.Decanter | 90 DEC

Harvested from a small parcel, less than four acres, this wine is in perfect condition. It is balanced, with white fruit and citrus coming together, led by the acidity. It is developing into a full, ripe wine. Wait until 2019.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE(Pouilly-Fumé “Clos des Chaudoux”- Domaine Serge Dagueneau et Fille) The 2016 Clos des Chaudoux Domaine Serge and Valerie Dagueneau is an outstanding bottle of Pouilly-Fumé. This is unique in the family’s lineup, as these fifty-five year-old sauvignon blanc vines are actually planted on terres blanches limestone, rather than flint. The wine is quite tropical in its fruit complexion in 2016, offering up notes of pineapple, tangerine, just a touch of damp grass, beautiful chalky minerality and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, focused and complex, with plenty of secondary development already showing, but coupled to a good girdle of acidity and plenty of cut and grip on the long finish. With the frosts of 2016, this wine may be just a touch idiosyncratically styled in this vintage, but it has depth, beaucoups complexity and impressive backend length. I decanted the wine to let it blossom and consume some of its initial aromatic oddities, and I really liked the wine after that. It is never going to make you forget a great vintage of Didier Dagueneau’s Pur Sang, but it is loaded with personality all the same! (Drink between 2019-2030)John Gilman | 91 JG

Produced from vines planted in 1920 in an east/southeast-facing premier cru, de Suremain’s finest white is the 2017 Rully 1er Cru Pillot L’intemporelle, a striking wine that offers up attractive aromas of confit citrus, crisp green orchard fruit and almond paste. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with racy acids and a promising sense of tension and structural reserve. It’s well worth seeking out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Opening in the glass with hints of honeycomb, toasted nuts, fresh pears and wet stones, the 2017 Mâcon-Cruzille Clos de la Mollepierre is medium to full-bodied, enveloping but precise, with a tensile core, excellent concentration and a long, chalky finish. It’s another very serious wine from Domaine Guillot-Broux.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RP

The 2017 Pouilly Fumé Prédilection is from several terraces on Muschelkalk soils and located closer to the Loire, so they benefit from cool afternoon breezes and nights. The wine opens pure and crunchy on the nose when young, with stony aromas intermixed with notes of white fruit but gets more and more floral with bottle age. The palate is powerful, dense and complex, showing serious substance, tannins and length but also elegance and terroir expression. The finish is lush but also pure and salty and structured by very fine tannins. It’s a crystalline, refined and elegant style with a very long finish. Tasted in February 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThis wine takes its minerality from the chalk soil in which the vines grow. It has considerable texture as well as perfumed richness and dense white fruits accented by spice. The wine is ready to drink.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WEVery pure and smoky, with a peach, apricot and elderflower fragrance and a fabulously expressive mineral acid undercurrent.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2017 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru has more mineralité on the nose compared directly to the Sécher, attractive orange blossom and canned apricot scents emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a tang of ginger on the entry, showing impressive weight and a taut, linear, quite persistent finish. This is excellent, fulfilling the potential it showed back in June.Vinous Media | 92 VMBeautiful aromas of wet stones and limes, as well as grapefruit. The palate has a very succulent and attractive feel with lithe and linear acidity as a feature. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSAs usual, the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is the most blocky and broad-shouldered of the domaine’s premiers crus, revealing notes of smoky citrus oil, white flowers and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, powerful palate that’s still youthfully firm, balanced by tangy acids and concluding with a distinctly saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91+ RP(Maison Joseph Drouhin Chablis "Mont de Milieu" 1er Cru White) A distinct whiff of the exotic can be found on the layered and riper nose that combines notes of apricot, white peach, lychee and hint of tidal pool. Once again there is plenty of citrus influence to the bigger and richer medium-bodied flavors that possess good muscle and punch, all wrapped in an impressively powerful, long and serious finale. This youthfully austere effort is clearly built-to-age and is going to need at least some forbearance. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 91 BH(Chablis “Mont de Milieu”- Domaine Drouhin Vaudon) Mont de Milieu is on the Right Bank in Chablis and this sector was far more severely hit by the late April frosts than was the case across the Yonne, so yields here are decidedly lower than was the case with the estate’s Sécher, Montmains or Vaillons. The wine is more forward out of the blocks in 2017 than the Sécher, offering up a precise and inviting bouquet of lemon, green apple, limestone soil tones, spring flowers and a topnote of beeswax. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very elegant in profile, with a bright, but easy-going structural chassis, fine mid-palate depth and a long, bouncy and complex finish. This is already very tasty, but seems to have the balance to age quite well, despite not being particularly steely in terms of acidity. (Drink between 2018-2040)John Gilman | 91 JGA lift of citrus on the nose of this wine immediately sets a bright, fresh accent. The palate comes in with ripe, fresh Mirabelle abundance that enjoys the definition and texture reminiscent of white citrus pith. This wine focuses on fruit but manages to stay toned and defined. Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

The nose on this wine promises creaminess, with subtle yeastiness. The palate has ease and creamy flow, presenting a lemony, cushioned and yeasty texture. Rounded and bright, the finish leaves a vivid impression of buttermilk.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThe 2017 Meursault Les Narvaux is showing beautifully, offering up aromas of citrus oil and crisp Anjou pear mingled with hints of beeswax and fresh butter. Medium to full-bodied, satiny but incisive, it’s elegantly textural, with terrific depth and tension at the core, underpinned a racy spine of acidity that carries through the penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

A step up over the 2018, the 2017 Condrieu Les Cassines has textbook aromas and flavors of honeyed citrus, tangerine oil, crushed rocks, and spice. Rich, beautifully textured, and balanced, it’s rocking Condrieu that I suspect will continue to drink beautifully for 3-4 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JD

Luminous straw-green. Slightly compressed but still perfumed nose of sage, thyme, gooseberry, lime and white flowers. Then excellent inner-mouth perfume of lime, passion fruit and gooseberries. Closes long, tactile and saline, not to mention very refined. Lovely wine from a recognized master of the Sauvignon Blanc variety not just in Alto Adige, but in all of Italy.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Alexandra Boudrot made this wine from a 6.18-acre parcel at Mambourg, a grand cru on the south face of Mount Sigolsheim. It has the clean balance of a vintage without extremes, a sweet adolescent beauty delivered in high-toned spice and meadow-flower scents. There’s underlying toasty richness, but the main element is a freshness that can carry off that glistening impression of sweetness. Decant it for chawanmushi (a delicate, savory Japanese custard) or serve it with a bacon-and-onion quiche.Wine and Spirits Mag | 94 W&SA concentrated nose of Damask rose and juicy peach makes for a heady opening on this wine. A hint of grapefruit-peel spice plays on the juicy, medium-sweet palate. Along with citrus freshness, this creates a lovely balance of richness and freshness.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

From more basalt soils, the 2017 Chardonnay Frenchman Hills is another beautiful wine from this team that was fermented in a mix of puncheons and concrete and aged all in barrel. Lots of minerality, honeyed golden apple, brioche, and subtle caramelized lemon notes all flow to a medium-bodied, vibrant white that has bright acidity, plenty of richness and depth, and a great finish. It’s another age-worthy effort that will benefit from bottle age.Jeb Dunnuck | 94+ JDPlenty of sliced apple and pear aromas with hints of cream and vanilla. Full-bodied, layered and nicely oily with a long, flavorful finish. Dried fruit and candied lemon at the end. All about purity of fruit. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSA luscious texture blends with a crisp spine of acid that drives the apricot, honeysuckle and spiced golden apple flavors, ending with a plump finish. Drink now. 356 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSPale gold colored, the 2017 Chardonnay Frenchman Hills Vineyard seems the most subdued of the range this year, having faint hints of apple blossom, seared pears and citrus peel. Medium-bodied, the palate is short, straightforward and mineral-laden and leaves me wanting more vibrancy and precision before ending with a soft phenolic finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPBright yellow. Slightly reduced aromas of yellow stone fruits and nutty, toasty oak. Rich, ripe and a bit fat; offers very good mouth feel but not quite the depth of fruit or subtle complexity of the Moxee or Roza Hills Chardonnays. Finishes with a slightly dry phenolic edge, good length and a touch of baking spices. (from 28-year-old vines planted on volcanic soil at an altitude of 1,700 feet).Vinous Media | 90 VM

Musky apricot pit, peach and spicy vanillin oak on the nose. Densely packed but quite suave and fine-grained in spite of its saline thrust. A very sappy, refined midweight with lovely salinity and tactile length. Offers much more than just fruit: sexy oak, minerals, cyanic fruit pit. Fresh stone fruits continue to emerge as the wine opens with air. Finishes with a lovely spine of citrussy acidity and sneaky building length. No shortage of weight or palate presence here but very shapely and refined. This superb Washington Chardonnay held up brilliantly in the recorked bottle and should evolve positively over the next several years. (aged in French oak, 40% new; about 35% of the wine went through malolactic fermentation)Vinous Media | 93 VMAn impressive Chardonnay, the 2018 from Abeja offers lots of peach, apple, and lemon oil notes as well as a medium-bodied, rich yet also fresh style on the palate. I love its balance and it’s going to drink nicely for 2-3 years at a minimum.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JDLively and expressive, the 2018 Chardonnay begins with aromas of toasted oak, white peach, baked apples and pears with a waft of lemon crème brûlée on the nose. Medium to full-bodied, the wine is rich with a round edge and energetic acidity and displays a balanced structure across the mid-palate. The wine shows delightful complexity on the lingering finish with lasting sensations of citrus blossom, Anjou pear and peach skin followed by a nuance of graham cracker crust. Nicely done.Robert Parker | 90+ RPBright and elegantly easygoing, with apple and citrus flavors that linger toward a delicately spicy finish. Drink now. 520 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WSA straightforward chardonnay with cooked-apple and lemon character. Some pie crust. Medium body. Easy to drink now.James Suckling | 90 JSThe aromas offer notes of toast, barrel char and stone fruit. The palate brings a ripe peach flavor that maintains a sleek profile out of the gate, filling out over time.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Lithe and vibrant, this finely-balanced Gewürztraminer glides across the palate with a lovely range of lychee, peach skin, jasmine and passion fruit coulis flavors. The well-cut, mineral-laced finish lingers, echoing the ripe fruit and spice notes. Drink now through 2028.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAromas of candlewax and lychee arise from the glass. On the palate, they’re met with luscious sweetness and racy (but not quite searing) acidity, as well as some cooked apple and nutmeg notes. Though a hair more acid would have been a welcome refreshment, this wine’s weighty, velvety texture and long finish are lovely.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

This is a generous, layered white with lots of cooked apples and hints of coconut and vanilla. Full body. Phenolic tension, too. Lots of white pepper and saltiness underneath. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2018 Chablis Vau de Vey was cropped at 58hl/ha and matured in 50% barrels and 50% stainless steel for 12 months. It has a clean, pure bouquet of yellow plum, orange pith and light crushed stone notes. The palate conveys energy right from the start, revealing hints of blood orange and quince, racy acidity and an elegant, very persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. Superb.Vinous Media | 94 VMA lovely, slightly reductive note of smoke swathes green pear notes on the nose of this wine. The palate adds lemony juiciness to sonorous notes of smoky oak that surround lively Mirabelle fruit. On the finish, bright lemon adds poise, elegance and length.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2018 Chablis Village, matured for 12 months in 80% stainless steel and 20% used oak, has a vibrant, fresh, classic Chablis nose that many other growers were not able to achieve in this warm year. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, vibrant and zesty, showing a touch of spice on the elegant finish. This must surely be one of the finest Chablis Village of 2018.Vinous Media | 92 VMA touch of wet walnut accompanies pear and lemon on this wine’s fresh nose. Vivaciousness at the core belies the heat of the 2018 vintage. Yes, there is concentration and some midpalate weight, but salty, preserved-lemon freshness dominates the wine and bright finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2018 Chablis Vauprin comes from 1.7ha of 25-year-old vines and is raised for 12 months in 50% oak barrels and 50% stainless steel. It has a very harmonious bouquet of yellow flowers, mirabelle, crushed rocks and light hazelnut aromas that attain impressive intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity; there is real tension and race here. The finish fans out wonderfully and its persistence deserves applause considering the relatively unknown location of this vineyard. Highly recommended.Vinous Media | 93 VMResonant notes of roasted hazelnut on the nose of this wine sit well with the lemon brightness. The palate carries the same nuttiness but puts lemon freshness center stage. This slightly smoky combination is bedded on a smooth but cooling, yeasty texture, with beautiful length. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

(Guigal Hermitage Blanc) Plenty of quince, crushed stone, and white flower notes emerge from the 2018 Hermitage Blanc, a rich, medium to full-bodied white Hermitage. It has a kiss of toasty, nutty notes, but otherwise has completely absorbed its time spent in barrel. Beautifully done, this textured, layered white is going to evolve for two decades or more. (Drink between 2020-2042)Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JD(E Guigal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, White) Extremely full-bodied, possessing touches of dried pear, almond and an inner sweetness to the fruit. Delicious salinity and pleasing acidity, it does finish quite robust and oaky, but it’s not overly powerful and works well. 18 to 24 months in second-fill barrel. (Drink between 2021-2029)Decanter | 94 DEC(Hermitage Blanc- E. Guigal) The Guigal family’s bottling of Hermitage Blanc is almost entirely composed of marsanne, with ninety-five percent of the blend being this grape variety and the other five percent being roussanne, with the vines ranging from thirty to fully ninety years of age! The wine is raised for two years entirely in oak barrels, with the casks all “one wine barrels”. The 2018 version is a lovely young wine, coming in at fourteen percent alcohol and offering up a youthful bouquet of nectarine, pear, a superb base of soil tones, a touch of raw almond, white lilies and just a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and rally has excellent structure for a 2018 white wine, with a rock solid core, excellent soil undertow and grip, very good acids for the vintage and a long, complex and very well balanced finish. This is excellent juice. (Drink between 2021-2040)John Gilman | 93 JGFull-bodied and expansive on the palate, Guigal’s 2018 Hermitage Blanc exhibits scents of toasted marshmallow, grilled pear, candied citrus and fennel fronds. Round and mouthfilling, it may be drunk now with considerable pleasure for its weight and sheer lusciousness, but lovers of aged Rhône whites will want to set aside a bottle or two for 10 years or so.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPFresh and rounded in feel, with melon, pear and heather honey notes backed by a lemon curd hint on the finish. Bring on the langoustines and saffron aïoli. Drink now. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2018 Chablis Côte de Jouan 1er Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of lemon curd, orange pith and honeysuckle scents that seem to grab the olfactory senses. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and crisp, leading to a complex finish of sour lemon, kumquat and saline notes that linger on the aftertaste. Superb.Vinous Media | 93 VM