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(Château Latour) My last note on the 1945 Latour goes back more than fifteen years ago, but I can still taste the wine today if I close my eyes! This was the very first “great” old vintage of Latour that I ever drank, as a friend in my wine tasting group at the time served a bottle of this to us at our “Christmas Tasting” back in 1988, and every subsequent bottle has been the stuff of legends. I have only drunk the ’45 on three or four occasions as the years have rolled by (making our bad cork on the bottle of the ’45 this past spring that much more difficult to take, though it was promptly replaced by the magical 1959 commented on above!), but here is my note from the turn of the century. The 1945 Latour is at the peak of its powers as it closes in on its fifty-fifth birthday, offering up the bottomless depth and great purity that the short crop of ’45 gave to the best wines. The bouquet is gorgeous, offering up scents of cassis, black cherries, plenty of black truffles, walnuts, cigar smoke, dark soil tones, new leather and a hint of paraffin in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and utterly majestic in scope, with a bottomless core, still a bit of chewy backend tannin, excellent focus and grip and a very, very long and superbly complex finish. One of the legendary Latours of the twentieth century! (Drink between 1999-2050)John Gilman | 100 JGThis is the best bottle of 1945 I have ever tasted in my life, with a phenomenal nose of mint, currants, blackberries and wet earth. It’s very velvety and then feels silky. It goes on for minutes.James Suckling | 100 JSPerfect in every way. Dark ruby color with anamber edge. Aromas of mint, berry, blackberry,earth and spices pop out of the glass. Full-bodiedand brimming over with sweet fruit character, ripeand velvety tannins. Long and succulent finish.What more could you want in a wine? Best bottle of1945 Latour I have ever had.--Latourvertical. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 100 WSThe 1945 Latour, which I have been lucky enough to taste several times, came directly from the château. It reveals that unmistakable peppermint trait on the nose that I once scurrilously compared to a McClaren Vale Cabernet (I don’t think Frédéric Engerer forgave my comparison.) There is a stronger leathery note to this bottle that previous examples, intermingling with undergrowth, antique mahogany bureau and then with further aeration, juniper. The palate is sweet and concentrated with immense depth and muscle. The 1945 Latour does not possess the aristocracy or audacity of the ‘45 Mouton. This is more obvious, more ostentatious in a reversal of their trademark styles. There is no denying enormous grip on the ravishingly, luxuriant finish and a compelling spiciness on the aftertaste. Tasted at the Latour dinner in Hong Kong.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis has always been an irregular vintage. I purchased a mixed case of the 1945 Latour, some of which had been reconditioned at the Chateau and others with the original corks. Those with the original corks always seemed to be the best, with a handful of them meriting ratings in the 95-98 range.This particular bottle revealed the austerity and mouth-searing tannin levels that afflict so many 1945s. However, the aromatics were top-flight, revealing scents of dried fruit, tobacco, smoke, earth, and soy. In the mouth, the wine is medium-bodied, attenuated, and just beginning to lose its fruit, exhibiting austerity and astringent tannin. Nevertheless, this is an example where each bottle may be considerably different.Robert Parker | 90 RP

A bottle of 1949 Latour direct from the château enjoyed at The Eight in Macau was stunning. The colour was still a deep garnet, and the nose was forward and very expressive, with a bouquet that ranged from dried plum, mulberry and prune touched with liquorice and anise, to a deep undercurrent of truffle and ground coffee. The texture was velvety and rich, almost decadent, yet lively and lingering – not fading at all, and rich and complete up to the end. This wine has years to go.Decanter | 100 RPOn each of the previous occasions I have had this wine it has flirted with perfection. This bottle was again a riveting, opulently-textured drinking experience. Its spectacularly perfumed bouquet consists of truffles, black tea, soy, minerals, and copious sweet prune, coffee-infused, black currant fruit. Sweet on the attack, with a rare opulence, a voluptuous texture, full body, terrific freshness, and a chewy, fleshy, succulent finish, this has always been great stuff. This bottle was no exception. It has been fully mature for 25-30 years, but well-stored or larger format bottlings will last another two decades.Robert Parker | 98 RPThe 1949 Latour has the best aromatics compared to the 1945 and 1947: stylish, classy, beautifully defined, regal and just very Pauillac: vestiges of black fruit intermingling with graphite, cedar and subtle tertiary scents. It is the epitome of postwar Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannin, wonderful acidity, shimmering black fruit laced with graphite and smoke that fan out in statesmanlike fashion towards the irresistible finish. This is one of the best bottles of the 1949 that I have tasted: cool and sophisticated as Noel Coward in a smoking jacket. Tasted at the Latour dinner in Hong Kong.Vinous Media | 98 VMWhat a glorious wine. Aromas of berries, cinnamon and Indian spices follow through to a full-bodied palate with lovely soft tannins and a long, fruity finish.--Latour vertical. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 1949 vintage of Latour has been stunning for as long as I have been in the wine trade, and at age sixty-eight, it is at its absolute summit of peak drinkability. The beautiful bouquet soars from the glass in a fine blend of sweet cassis, black cherries, walnuts, cigar smoke, dark soil tones, a bit of petroleum jelly and the faintest hint of red curry in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and marvelously vibrant still, with a suave core of fruit, great focus and grip, melted tannins and a very, very long, soil-driven and à point finish. This is a beautiful synthesis of the very elegant profile of 1949 and the broad-shouldered and muscular style of great old Latour. I would be happy to drink it anywhere, anytime! (Drink between 2017 - 2045)John Gilman | 95 JG

(Château Calon-Ségur) After having been snake-bitten with bad luck on a couple of occasions (cooked examples) with the 1961 Calon-Ségur, I was delighted to be served a bottle in pristine condition just before finishing up this feature on the estate. This is a great, great 1961 that is still a few years away from its apogee of peak drinkability. This hails from the old days at the château, when Calon was renowned for the longevity of its wines, and the 1961 is still a bit chewy and will continue to improve with further bottle age. The bouquet is very, very deep, pure and stunning, wafting from the glass in a vibrant blend of black cherries, sweet dark berries, Cuban cigar wrapper, a complex base of dark soil, a touch of coffee bean and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and rock solid at the core, with the purity of 1961’s fruit beautifully synthesized to the classic, sturdy structure of Calon and adding a perception of roundness on the backend that is very rare for Calon in this era. The finish is very, very, very long, focused and well-balanced, with a chewy nature still in evidence to the remaining tannins, and great grip and complexity closing this magical 1961. Hard to believe that this wine, which is now more than fifty years of age, is going to be even better with further bottle age! This is the finest vintage of Calon-Ségur I have ever had the pleasure to taste. (Drink between 2014-2070)John Gilman | 96 JG

(Lafite-rothschild Lafite-rothschild Red) The 1962 Lafite-Rothschild is served from an impeccable magnum, one of the standouts of this comprehensive vertical tasting. Perhaps the larger format and provenance should be factored in, but neither of my two previous encounters with the 1962 has come close to this. Deeper in color than the 1966, the 1962 offers impressive blackberry and bilberry on the nose, vines of cedar and graphite evolving with time flanked by subtle black olive and brine. The palate is revivifying and fresh, demonstrating exquisite delineation. There is a compelling edginess to this Lafite, with a sustained pencil lead finish backed up by plenty of saline notes. What a truly great 1962 Bordeaux and perchance an under-appreciated Lafite-Rothschild. Tasted at the Lafite-Rothschild dinner at Amuse Bouche in Hong Kong. (Drink between 2018-2035)Vinous Media | 95 VMTasted from magnum. A shade deeper and richer than the single bottle, with plenty of cedar and currant flavors, full body and a sense of intensity and liveliness. One of the most powerful Lafites in the tasting. Drink now to 2005.--Lafite Rothschild vertical. —Wine Spectator | 93 WS(Château Lafite-Rothschild) The nose on the 1962 Lafite is polished, ethereal and fully mature, which offers up a lovely, transparent mélange of red berries, cigar box, a touch of menthol, delicate notes of sage, orange zest, plenty of cedar and a touch of summer truffle. On the palate the wine is medium-full, ethereal and beautifully complex, with excellent focus, and lovely shape and grip on the tangy finish. At age forty-five this is still a very pretty wine and sophisticated wine, and while it does not deliver the same scale as the greatest vintages of Lafite, there remains this lovely perfume, elegance, complexity and great intensity of flavor that makes this an entirely satisfying drink. (Drink between 2007-2020)John Gilman | 92 JG

First, a magnum of 1964 Hermitage La Chapelle from Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Lucid in hue, it sports modest bricking on the rim. Its initial tightness on the nose soon disappears to reveal layers of melted red berries, allspice and touches of wild mint, hints of potpourri/garrigues emerging with time. The palate is fleshy and displays exquisite balance, the vestige of fruit framed by filigree tannins, hints of strawberry and bay leaf as it fans out and deepens on the captivating finish. Format and provenance play a role here, yet it was undeniably Hermitage at its very best and at 58-years of age, one senses it has no intention of stepping off its high plateau. Utterly transfixing.Vinous Media | 97 VMA warm summer led to supple, low-acidity wines. This Chapelle reflects the vintage--smooth, silky and full-bodied. Less expressive than the ’66, but tastes rounder and richer. Melts on the palate as it delivers white chocolate, spice, fresh plum and freshly roasted coffee bean. Seems younger than you’d expect from a 35-year-old wine.--La Chapelle vertical. Drink now through 2005.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis fully mature La Chapelle exhibits a dark garnet color with considerable amber at the edge. Aromas of wood fires, smoke, leather, Asian spices, roasted vegetables, and meats emerge from the wine’s bouquet.Burly, brawny, fat, and full, with low acidity, high alcohol, and copious glycerin and fruit, this 1964 is initially sumptuous, creamy-textured, and spectacular to drink, but it quickly cracks up as it sits in the glass. I have not had much previous experience with this vintage, but I suspect it was close to perfect when drunk in its prime (the seventies and early eighties). However, it is clearly at the end of its useful life, and should be consumed ... quickly.Robert Parker | 93 RP

From one of the 20th century’s celebrated vintages for Yquem, this bottle stands up to all the hype--unforgettable for its purity, elegance, harmony, its ’total’ everything. Powerful, yet it seems weightless on the palate, almost defying gravity as it tangos around with its vanilla, peach and apricot flavors. Seamless, nearly endless finish. Easy to understand its reputation as the greatest Yquem of the last 35 years.Wine Spectator | 100 WSGenerally speaking, 1967 was not a great vintage for the dry reds of Bordeaux. After a "meh" start to the Yquem harvest in early October, a spell of rain ensued, followed by warm dry temperatures in mid-October that ignited an explosion of botrytis. The rest is history: 1967 was a legendary year for Yquem. And this was indeed a very good bottle, tasted at the Chateau in spring 2019.Displaying a gorgeous deep amber-gold color, the 1967 d’Yquem slips sensuously out of the glass with a profound perfume of dried mandarin peel, allspice, praline, cinnamon toast and orange blossoms plus hints of gingerbread and accents of lemon butter. The palate is simply electric with citrus and spice-sparked energy, delivering youthfully vibrant notes with a tantalizing floral undercurrent. Superb freshness knit inseparably with the complex sweetness makes this seem like a deceptively delicate, lithe, medium-dry style, even if the truth is far richer yet with edifying persistence. For Sauternes lovers, a perfectly preserved bottle of this wine is undoubtedly the Holy Grail.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPWith the possible exception of the 1945 and 1928 Yquem, the 1967 is, by most people’s reckoning, the benchmark Sauternes of the 20th century. This bottle more than lived up to that reputation. Deep gold in color, it offers up a dizzying array of scents ranging from singed orange peel, caramelized pear, apricot nectar, fig cake, honey, toffee and turbinado sugar, with flavors to follow. Its viscous texture completely envelops the palate and the finish, if one can reasonably even call it a “finish”, as the wine seems to go on forever. This hauntingly complex, powerful yet shockingly lively Sauternes could be served with all sorts of decadent desserts, but it really deserves to be appreciated by itself, especially since one never knows when another chance to experience it might come around again.Such is the fame of this wine that it has single-handedly given the 1967 vintage in Sauternes and Barsac a huge reputation when, in fact, it was actually a pretty average year for the wines, overall. On top of that, almost all of the sweet wines from 1967 are past and even well past their prime at this stage. That’s emphatically not the case with this Yquem, which is one of the most spell-binding wines that I have had the chance to drink in years, even decades. There’s no question that, at 53 years of age, the 1967 is at or near peak, but well-stored bottles should easily be breathtaking for at least another two decades, perhaps longer.Vinous Media | 99 VM(Château d’Yquem) Prior to this bottle of the ’67 Yquem, I had not crossed paths with this wine since my sommelier days at Gotham Bar and Grill, which was putting it back a ways. The wine has always been one of the more opulent top vintages of Yquem, and it continues to drink very well in that slightly larger than life style. The bouquet is deep, pure and sumptuous, as it wafts from the glass in a blend of crème brulée, oranges, ginger honey, clover, white cherries, barley sugar and an impressive base of minerally soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and very powerfully built (even in the context of Yquem’s customary intensity), with a rock solid core of fruit, impeccable focus and a nearly endless finish. The wine is just a touch bitter on the backend today, which makes me wonder if it is beginning to near the far side of its absolute apogee, and may soon begin a very slow and gentle decline. Though of course this characteristic could just be unique to this particular bottle. This is a very impressive vintage of Yquem, but in terms of depth, complexity and length, there are even better ones out there. (Drink between 2007-2030)John Giilman | 94 JG

One of the top two or three wines of the vintage (Petrus and Trotanoy are noteworthy rivals), this young, magnificent Latour is still 5-10 years away from full maturity. The opaque garnet color is followed by a huge, emerging nose of black fruits, truffles, walnuts, and subtle tobacco/Graves-like scents. Full-bodied, fabulously concentrated and intense, with a sweet inner-core of fruit (a rarity in most 1970 Medocs), and high but well-integrated tannin, this enormously endowed, massive Latour should hit its prime by the end of the century and last for 2-3 decades thereafter. This is will be the longest-lived and potentially most classic wine of the vintage. Cream always comes to the top.Robert Parker | 98 RPChâteau Latour back in 1970 was still the longest-lived, most consistently excellent and backwards château to be found in all of Bordeaux. For many years after release, the 1970 Latour was one of the few examples of the vintage that was not particularly charming to drink, and it has taken a full thirty-five years for the wine to really blossom and begin showing its true quality. Today it is clear that the 1970 Latour is clearly one of the top three or four wines of the vintage, which has just now begun to emerge from its customary thirty years of hibernation and show itself in all its splendor. The stunning bouquet offers up sweet notes of black cherries, cassis, some grilled meat, cigar box, plenty of Pauillac soil, a bit of chipotle pepper, woodsmoke and cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and powerful, with a rock solid core of fruit, modest tannins, outstanding acidity, and tremendous length and grip on the endless, soil-driven and profound finish. Just a great bottle of Latour.John Gilman | 96+ JGA flight of 1970s that followed (all from magnums) was special, to say the least. The 1970 Chateau Latour was incredibly fresh in its generous expression of fruit, with a full-bodied, intense personality. I thought this bottle was very slightly corked, but I was among the distinct minority in that opinion.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGSoft, round and wonderful with currants, licorice and delicate berries with a stony, wet earth undertone. Full and velvety texture.James Suckling | 94 JSElegant and gorgeous to drink now. Peaked. Ruby red color with an amber edge. Lovely aromas of plum, berry and mint. Full-bodied, with currant, dried herb character. Medium finish.--Latour vertical. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

This bottle of 1971 Petrus is perhaps the best that I have encountered, completely overawing the 1970 served alongside. It boasts a gorgeous bouquet with delineated red berry fruit, pressed rose petals, hints of kirsch and a touch of sandalwood, perhaps even a little exotic compared to previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with seductive fleshiness on the entry, a surfeit of black truffle infused red fruit and life-affirming purity. Unlike other bottles, this example seems to meliorate with aeration, gaining intensity and depth towards the precise and tender finish. I doubt that I will find another 1971 Petrus as good as this. Tasted at the Petrus dinner at Hide restaurant in London.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis wine has been seemingly fully mature since the mid- to late seventies. It is a seductive, opulent vintage for Petrus. The color now is a dark garnet with considerable amber at the rim. The incredible nose of Christmas fruitcake intermixed with mocha, jammy kirsch, and black currants is followed by a silky textured, full-bodied, very opulent wine that is still totally intact. The tannins have totally dissipated, and the wine is an unctuous, seductive Petrus that is certainly one of the vintages that is most delicious and compelling. A sensational wine and probably the wine of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: Now-2011. Last tasted, 11/02.Robert Parker | 95 RPThis wine is as comfortable as your favorite pair of slippers. Extremely caressing, with wonderfully enticing aromas and flavors of tobacco and violets and a rich, round palate.--Pétrus vertical. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The wines at Latour were being made by Jean-Paul Gardère and Henri Martin in 1975. This is hugely impressive for a second wine (the label made its first appearance in the 1960s but was only made every year from 1990). At 40 years old, this is beautifully rich, with deep black pepper spice and liquroice on display, excellent complexity and grip, with a surprisingly youthful lift on the finish. The financial means of the First Growths have an impact – they would have among the rare estates to be using new oak at the time according to Triaud. Very impressive, far more contemporary in flavor than the others here.Decanter | 90 DEC

I absolutely love the nose of licorice, minerals, black currants, and berries. Full and slightly hard and acidic, but I could smell it all night. It softens and turns velvety and dusty on the finish with lots of fruit. Why wait on this? Served from imperial bottle.James Suckling | 95 JSThis wine has finally begun to reveal some potential. It has been closed and frightfully tannic for the last decade. The wine exhibits a good dark ruby/garnet color, a sweet nose of cedar, chocolate, cassis, and spices, good ripe fruit and extraction, and a weighty, large-scaled, tannic finish. Although still unevolved, it is beginning to throw off its cloak of tannin and exhibit more complexity and balance. I remain concerned about how well the fruit will hold, but this wine will undoubtedly hit its plateau around the turn of the century. Putting it in the context of what is a largely disappointing range of Mouton-Rothchilds in the decade of the seventies, great bottles of the 1970 are superior to the 1975, but this is clearly the second-best Mouton of the decade. Last tasted 12/95.Robert Parker | 90 RP

This is the wine of the vintage. I love the rosewater, currants and citrus character to this now. It’s still full body yet so ethereal. It goes on and on in the finish turning creamy and citrusy. From magnum.James Suckling | 96 JS(Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) served from magnum) In my experience, there are two wines that utterly tower above the crowd in the vintage of 1976 in Bordeaux, with Lafite-Rothschild and Ausone truly excellent and complete examples of their respective terroirs. This most recent magnum of the ’76 Lafite was every bit as refined as one a friend served on the occasion of his fiftieth birthday a few years back, with the bouquet jumping from the glass in a superb blend of red berries, orange peel, coffee, cigar ash, a marvelously complex base of gravelly soil tones, cedar and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and à point, with a lovely core, excellent transparency and focus and a long, complex and utterly suave finish that closes still with impressive grip and bounce. Just a lovely vintage of Lafite. (Drink between 2018-2040).John Gilman | 94 JGThe 1976 Lafite clearly stands far above the crowd in this vintage. A beautiful bouquet of seductive cedarwood, spices, and ripe fruit precedes a very concentrated, darkly colored wine, with great length and texture. Some amber is just beginning to appear at the edge. The 1976 has turned out to be the best Lafite of the ’70s. It is gorgeous to drink at present. Anticipated maturity: Now-2005. Last tasted, 9/96.Vinous Media | 93 RPThe 1976 Lafite-Rothschild has for many years been the surprise of an otherwise tricky vintage. This bottle replicated the one I opened back in November 2006. Mature in colour with a wide brick time, the bouquet is open-knit with Montecristos, graphite and dried herbs. The palate is medium-bodied and well balanced, perhaps having lost some of its vigour in recent years, and yet with ample detail on the classically styled finish. Apart from large formats, there is no benefit from keeping bottles longer. Tasted at lunch in Hong Kong.Vinous Media | 92 VM1976 was the hottest summer for 27 years, and very dry too. Harvest started on 15 September and although this is still alive, it’s clearly more evolved than many of the other vintages in the line up. It has a gamey, meaty feel with wonderful sweet strawberry, bay leaf and dried herbs through the palate. The finish is salt-edged with some spicy, herbal notes joined by a touch of dry tannins. Don’t count it out, of course, but this feels a little more preserved rather than beating with life. 1977 was the first year that Baron Eric arrived at Lafite full time to join his uncle, Baron Elie. Drinking Window 2018 - 2030.Decanter | 90 DEC

A rather hard wine, with a firm backbone of silky tannins and sweet black olive, vanilla and berry aromas and flavors.--Pétrus vertical. Best from 1992 through 1995. Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Often the measure of a great terroir and producer are the so-called off vintages, which frequently surprise and delight to punch far above their weight. The 81 Latour is a classic case in point. From an unheralded year, this particular bottle had clearly been kept in fabulous condition. The youthful colour is not dissimilar to the 96 and the nose still provides plenty of primary Cabernet-based fruit (classic cassis, lead pencil and cedar) with some tertiary notes in the background. Then a lovely attack on the palate; dry with very correct blackcurrant fruit, balsam, a hint of savoury iron rust and a vein of autumnal forest floor. Gentle, melting tannins, medium weight and a clean acidic cut enable the wine to glide effortlessly across the tastebuds. The finish is harmonious, long and cries out for another bottle. In short, a textbook claret which is now at its drinking best, even more so with a cut of roast lamb.Drinking Window 2015 - 2020.Decanter | 93 DEC

The other wine of the vintage. Seriously powerful with fabulous color and mint, cassis and berry aromas and flavors. Has a full body and is tannic; still needs time to come around. Better after 1997.--The Bordeaux 50.Wine Spectator | 95 WSIn weight and texture, the 1981 Margaux is closest in style to the 1979. It is an outstanding wine, even in the company of the monumental wines of 1982, 1983, and 1986, although it does not have the power and weight of these vintages. It is still very dark ruby/purple-colored. The aromatics suggest ripe cassis fruit, spicy vanillin oakiness, and violets. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, concentrated, tannic, and extremely long. It is just beginning to open and evolve. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 12/96.Robert Parker | 91 RP

Wonderfully rich and still holding back. Beautiful plum, toasted oak, berry and tobacco character. Firm with a full body. Drinkable now; better with time.--The Bordeaux 50.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

(Château Palmer) The 1981 vintage at Château Palmer is really lovely middleweight and a wine that offers up lovely sappiness at the core to go along with very refined aromatic complexity. The bouquet is a lovely blend of cassis, mulberry, cigar ash, hints of chipotle pepper, sweet cigar wrapper and a lovely base of dark soil tones. On the palate the wine is medium-full, pure and very suave on the attack, with a good core, lovely focus and balance, melted tannins and a long, classy finish. Just a lovely wine that is now at its apogee, but shows no signs of slowing down anytime soon. (Drink between 2016-2035)John Gilman | 92 JG

I’ve always had a soft spot for the 1981 vintage as well as these two châteaux. This was the first vintage of Bordeaux that I bought, back in 1984, with some knowledge of the region (or so I thought at the time) and Cos because the first serious vertical that I ever attended was of their wines from 1982 back to 1952. Pavie? Well, to be honest, it was the label that drew me in at first, being all old-timey Bordeaux and all. The first Pavie that I bought was a 1979 from a wine shop in Boston and from the get-go I was hooked on the blend of power and finesse that a St.-Emilion from a great terroir can exhibit. Being able to visit both of these estates in late June of 1989, on the same broiling hot day, sealed the deal.Ninteen eight-one is what some would derisively call a ‘classic’ or ‘restaurant’ vintage. In the old days some would say ‘a useful vintage’ for the fact that the wines are mostly to be drunk while waiting for “great” vintages to mature or to keep ones’ hands off of already mature ‘great’ vintages resting in the cellar. That belittles wines such as these two, I think, because more times than not I crave a graceful, finely delineated and less dramatic wine than one from a blockbuster vintage. Both of these bottles deliver the goods.Purchased by a good friend on release here in New York, both the Cos and the Pavie are decidedly at peak but based on these bottles there’s no need to fear the reaper. The Cos is a textbook rendition of the old style at the châteaux, with intense cigar box, dried cherry, licorice and pipe tobacco character and smooth, harmonious tannins that have all but faded away. As might be expected, the Pavie is more dramatic in character, but still showing the restraint that’s been typical of the ‘81s since release, offering a haunting, floral- and spice-dominated bouquet and plush, seamless plum and cherry flavors. Like the Cos, it’s fully mature but there’s no sign of undue fatigue, either. In both cases, pretty remarkable for 34 year-old wines from a vintage that’s now been mostly forgotten, but not by me.Vinous Media | 91 VM

I have noticed serious bottle variation with this wine, but recently it has been consistently scoring in the 94-96 point range. Beautifully sweet, slightly herbaceous black currant, licorice, and earthy notes emerge from this nearly opaque, dark ruby/purple-tinged 1982. Compared to the more elegant, feminine-styled wine often produced here, it is a beast. Dense, thick, rich, concentrated, and impressive, it can be drunk now and over the next two decades. Release price: ($130.00/case)Robert Parker | 94 RP(Château Beychevelle) I had not crossed paths with a bottle of the 1982 Château Beychevelle since I wrote my feature on this fine estate back in the spring of 2011. The wine remains quite youthful for the vintage, offering up a deep and sappy nose of black cherries, cassis, a touch of bell pepper, cigar wrapper, a lovely base of gravelly soil tones and a fine dollop of spice in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and very refined in profile, with melting tannins, a sappy core and excellent length and grip on the just blossoming finish. This is quite tasty today with some time in decanter, but it is still climbing and in a perfect world, bottles would still be left alone in the cellar for another five years. (Drink between 2018-2060).John Gilman | 93+ JG

This wine shows fabulous aromas of stones and flowers with dried fruits and spices. It’s subtle yet full with ultra-fine tannins and a gorgeous, long finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 97 JSA consistently spectacular 1982, this wine provided sumptuous drinking the first 5-6 years after bottling. Since the late eighties the wine has become more structured without losing any of its power, fat, or concentration. It is capable of lasting at least another decade, although I will not quibble with any readers who can no longer defer their gratification. The dense color reveals no amber. Young, primary aromas of black fruits, toasty oak, crushed stones, and flowers dominate the wine’s moderately intense nose. Thick, rich, full-bodied, and multi-dimensional, this is unquestionably the most concentrated Canon I have ever tasted. This large-scaled, super-rich, sweet wine is one of the rare Canons that possesses more depth of fruit than tannin. Drink it over the next 10-15 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2018. Last tasted, 12/02Robert Parker | 94 RP(Château Canon) The 1982 vintage of Château Canon continues to drink beautifully and is really one of the more flamboyant vintages I have ever tasted from the property. The superb bouquet jumps from the glass in a blaze of black cherries, menthol, a hint of nutskin, a beautifully complex base of limestone soil tones, woodsmoke and a touch of toasty oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very sappy at the core, with excellent focus and grip, melting tannins and a very long, voluptuous and classy finish. A complete, very complex and utterly marvelous Canon. (Drink between 2018-2050).John Gilman | 94 JGShows mint, black tea, [i]sous-bois[n] and sandalwood notes that are distinctive and alluring. Long and refined on the finish, with supple black cherry and boysenberry fruit gliding throughout. Wins mostly on aroma, but there’s still sneaky depth and length here. Lovely.—Non-blind Canon vertical (December 2016). Drink now through 2022.Wine Spectator | 93 WSUnfortunately, the magnum of 1982 Canon poured at dinner was not showing well, though another bottle tasted in Bordeaux attests a decent Saint-Émilion in a period when the estate was long overdue investment. Fully-mature, the nose does not possess the vigour of say, the 1982 Figeac, though there are pleasant hung gamey notes and a scent of a Tuscan delicatessen. The palate has a nice mouthfeel, quite fleshy with tobacco and leather-tinged red fruit; the finish is still quite rustic but with charm in spades. A fine Canon, though not top-flight, and bottles should be drunk soon.Vinous Media | 90 VM

(12.8% alcohol; 54 h/h): Amber-tinged red; based on other bottles I have tried, the color of this particular bottle seems slightly more evolved than usual. Penetrating aromas of strawberry jam, raspberry, red cherry, orange peel, flowers and minerals. Enters bright, dense and linear, with very pure flavors of red cherry, citrus, minerals, marzipan and subtle herbs. Finishes very long and pure, with a strong peppery note, a lingering coffee nuance, and chewy, mounting tannins. Complex and multilayered, this is a very impressive wine, magically combining fleshy depth and pure aromas and flavors without being overripe or heavy. I was told in the past by a local wine lover and expert that the 1982 Cheval Blanc actually contains 5% malbec in the final blend, but nobody can confirm this at the estate. The season began warm and dry during April, then turned very hot in July and very dry between August 10 and September 20. It was then hot again in September, with the harvest taking place between September 20 and October 2. Mid-flowering occurred on June 5 and mid-veraison on August 9. A very famous, much sought-after wine, the 1982 Cheval has often been scored 100 points by other wine critics. I’m not sure this bottle was quite up to that lofty standard, but it is undoubtedly a great wine.Vinous Media | 96 VMAll in harmony. Deserves its reputation. Dark ruby. Smoke, black truffle, berry and cherry. Full-bodied, velvety and fine.--Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2005.Wine Spectator | 96 WS(Château Cheval Blanc) This wine has now been very shut down for the last four or five years, and though there is so much raw material here that the wine is still a joy to drink, bottles sampled today only represent twenty-five percent of what this wine will show at its glorious apogee. The bouquet is unmistakably Cheval, with scents of black cherries, bell pepper, dark chocolate, menthol, tobacco, herbs, espresso and vanillin oak wafting from the glass. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep, black fruity, and totally dense at the center, with excellent structure and delineation, great length and grip, and a fair bit of ripe, well-integrated tannin framing the finish. This is very elegant and only medium-full on the palate today (in notable contrast to its thick, luxurious and voluptuous youth), with great depth now buttoned up quite tightly at the core. I would opt for burying this treasure for at least another decade. (Drink between 2010-2060)John Gilman | 96+ JGThe 1982 Chateau Cheval Blanc is fully mature at this point and there’s certainly no upside, although it should keep for a decade. Mature red and black fruits, cedary spices, leather, flowers and dried flowers all flow to a sweetly fruited, sexy, open knit and ready to go wine that has resolved tannin and a good finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDIt shows a slightly verbal edge to it now with green coffee bean and currant leaf and fruit aromas. It’s full and silky with lovely tannins, but dried dark fruits with balsamic undertones on the palate. The Cabernet Franc is coming out more in this bottle. Fascinating wine.James Suckling | 93 JSDuring its first 10-12 years of life, this was a perfect wine, but it now seems to be in a stage where the fruit is still present, but the previous exuberance and intensity have faded slightly. There is plenty of amber at the edge, and this medium to full-bodied wine shows notes of menthol, cedar, spice box, plums, and black cherries. Owners of 750 ml bottles should plan on consuming it over the next 4-6 years. Magnums should be less evolved, and merit a score 4 to 6 points higher.Robert Parker | 92 RP