White Wines

wines

Fermented in a 300-liter Stockinger foudre, the 2019 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese ** (White Capsule) is another stunner of the vintage from Markus Molitor. Fine, crushed slate notes combined with the pure perfume of perfectly ripe yet refined and elegant tropical fruits and lemons appear on the complex yet highly refined nose. The full-bodied, intense and powerful palate reveals very rich, round and concentrated fruit with an almost oily texture structured by firm yet fine and lingering salinity and minerality as well as fine tannin grip. The 2019 might appear unfinished in the beginning right now, but with enough aeration, it will develop extremely well, yet only slowly. Even after I tasted the opened wine again after seven days, it was still in the process of developing. Considering the price, this is a sleeper of the vintage, and I’d seriously put it back for 20-30 years. Tasted from AP 43 20 in May 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RP

The white 2019 Certezas was produced with Sémillon from a plot of old vines from Finca Manoni in El Peral (Tupungato). Like the rest of the whites, it macerated with the skins for three days and then was pressed and fermented in 1,000-liter oak foudre, where the wine matured with gross lees for one year and then was transferred to used 500-liter barrels to mature for one more year. 2019 was cold and dry, and the grapes were healthy and ripened thoroughly to 13.7% alcohol while the wine retained very good freshness, acidity and balance. This is always the more Burgundian of the whites, with some yeasty and smoky aromas. It has a very balanced palate with pungent flavors and depth; it’s pure, complete, juicy and round, with very good structure. This is superb and has all the components and balance between them to age nicely in bottle. 1,500 bottles were filled in June 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

Crystal clear like a mountain stream, a light oak influence adds a note of lanolin to the apple, melon and lemon fruit. Turns more sleek and defined on the long, mineral- and herb-tinged aftertaste. Drink now through 2027. 269 cases made, 64 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2019 Chablis Les Séchets 1er Cru comes from vines located just above Vincent Dauvissat’s. The well-defined bouquet features honeysuckle and subtle white flower aromas. The palate is where the action is: it delivers vibrant citrus fruit, orange zest and light ginger notes. Lovely depth on the finish. This is an excellent Chablis.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet is taut and chiseled, unwinding in the glass to reveal aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, beeswax and crushed chalk. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, it will require and reward a bit of bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RP

This white is lean, sporting lemon, green plum, chamomile and lanolin aromas and flavors. A spine of vivid acidity keeps it focused and long, while the balance and harmony bode well for the future. Shows excellent length. Drink now through 2027. 263 cases made, 93 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Les Minots is lovely, wafting from the glass with notes of clear honey, citrus oil, white flowers and oatmeal. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, it’s bright and charming, concluding with a long, mineral finish. As I’ve written before, this hails from one of the sunnier, warmer lieux-dits within the larger climat of Les Vaillons, and it typically produces a more generous, gourmand wine; it’s also often where Piuze begins his harvest.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru "Les Minots" has a pretty beeswax and gravel bouquet. The palate is concentrated with fine depth and a touch of viscosity.Vinous Media | 91 VM

As with the 2018, the Marsanne-dominated 2019 Hermitage Le Chevalier De Sterimberg Blanc includes 30% Roussanne. Lots of buttered citrus, toasted bread, white flowers, and a touch of pineapple all emerge from this young, unevolved, medium to full-bodied Hermitage Blanc. With remarkable purity, bright, integrated acidity, and a great finish, it’s very much in the elegant, vibrant style of this cuvée and is beautifully done. Give bottles 2-3 years and it should keep for 20 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDSliced green-apple and melon aromas with lychees and citrus fruit follow through to a medium body with plenty of fruit in the center palate and a layered, mineral finish. Light notes of almond paste. A little tight now. From organically grown grapes. Give it two or three years to come together. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg is just a bit flinty and smoky on the nose, then bursts with ripe pineapple and pear notes and hints of melon and white peach. Medium to full-bodied, it’s almost crystalline in its fruit purity and dimension, with clean edges and ample length capped by an attractive hint of bitterness on the lingering finish. As usual, this is roughly two-thirds Marsanne and one-third Roussanne.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 2019 Chardonnay Goldberg Variations Hyde Vineyard is toasty and open on the nose with baked apples and white peaches complemented by wafts of jasmine, crushed almonds and graphite. The light-bodied palate is satiny with concentrated, toasty fruits and balancing mouthwatering acidity. It has lots of focus and energy, and hints of exotic spice in the undercurrent suggest there’s loads more expression waiting to emerge as this unwinds in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2019 Chardonnay Goldberg Variations Hyde Vineyard comes from a great vineyard in Carneros and spent 16 months in 70% new French oak. It offers a touch more tropical nuances in its melon and papaya-like fruits as well as white flowers, toasted spice, and brioche-like aromas and flavors. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is soft, supple, and opulent while still showing fabulous purity and precision. This is another gorgeous Chardonnay from this estate that will keep for 4-5 years, if not longer.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2019 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Goldberg Variations No. 2 is a pretty laid-back wine for Hyde, where the wines tend to be richer and weightier. Apricot, lemon confit, marzipan, apricot, tangerine peel, lightly honeyed notes and dried flowers all meld together in this beautifully precise expression of Hyde.Vinous Media | 94 VMLots of beautiful cooked-apple, lemon-curd and light pie-crust aromas follow through to a full body with a round texture, pear puree and a hint of apple pie. A combination of softness and brightness. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

When some are releasing their 2021 wine, Pazo Barrantes took a break and are now releasing their 2019 Gran Vino Albariño, after a hiatus of almost two years. Because they changed almost everything... They have 12 hectares of 35-year-old vineyards divided into eight different plots around the winery in the Val do Salnés plus one hectare they rent from the archbishopric. The soils are degraded and sandy granite and the pruning the traditional "parrón," "emparrado" or pergola at 1.8 to two meters high. The grapes were picked between September 13th and 20th, let to settle and fermented in stainless steel at 10 degrees Celsius for 60 days. The wine was kept with the lees for two months and a further seven months in tank, but 15% of the wine matured in 225-liter acacia barrels. The wine was bottled in June 2020 and was kept in bottle for 16 months. It’s 13% alcohol and has a pH of 3.4 and 7.8 grams of acidity (measured in tartaric acid per liter). The wine is extremely balsamic and medicinal, with an explosive nose with notes of white flowers, but the nose changes, as we know. What impressed me was the seamless structure and the harmony on the palate. It’s titillating, elegant, detailed and nuanced, with terrific balance. I was gobsmacked! 95,097 bottles and 1,425 magnums produced. All bottles are numbered and in the same elegant bottle as La Comtesse. Obviously, the price has changed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA fruity nose of apple blossom, nectarine, candied pear, guava, lime cordial and some fresh cider. It’s medium-bodied with bright acidity and a juicy, ripe palate. Subtle saline notes. Round, delicious finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JSThis wine has aromas of white peach with a hint of petrol. It is smooth in the mouth, offering flavors of nectarine, Valencia orange, salted popcorn and dried herbs.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEThis white has a smooth, luxurious texture, with lime, honey cream, white blossom and tangerine flavors that are matched with a hint of toast and ample spice elements. Mouthwatering acidity is well-integrated, with a long, lingering finish. Drink now through 2024. 11,667 cases made, 1,620 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSBrilliant, green-hued straw. Aromas of nectarine, orange, Anjou pear and white flowers, with a hint of fennel in the background. Fleshy orchard and pit fruit flavors tighten up with air. Shows very good energy on the long, chewy, mineral-driven finish, which leaves pear skin and honeysuckle notes behind.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Aromas of green mango, cooked pear, lemon curd and quince. Lemon wax, flint and toasted almonds, too. It’s full-bodied with a creamy, oily texture. Dense and phenolic with fantastic concentration. Yet, it remains agile and always so balanced and focused. 90% sauvignon blanc and 10% semillon. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Sauvignon Blanc l'Apres Midi is composed of 90% Sauvignon Blanc (one-third is Musque Clone) and 10% Semillon, grown alongside Les Pavots in Knights Valley. Due to issues with fruit set, the crop was naturally a little smaller this year. Exuberant scents of passion fruit, gooseberries and lime cordial come bounding out of the glass with suggestions of honeysuckle, wild thyme and wet slate. The medium to full-bodied palate is chock-full of ripe citrus and tropical fruit flavors with a pleasant oiliness to the texture and plenty of freshness, finishing long and savory. 2,320 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Green apple and Mirabelle flavors are cutting and pure on the palate of this richly textured, supple wine. While plush in body and undeniably ripe, it has an edge of lemony acidity alongside streaks of crystalline minerality. Voluptuous yet freshly composed, it’s delightful young but should fare well through 2030. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEPhilippe Colin farms a parcel of mostly 50-year-old vines within Les Chaumées, in the northwest corner of Chassagne, bordering St-Aubin. Given that it is near the top of the hill, where the soils are shallow without much clay, the site produced an impressively cool and expansive 2019, a wine with a long horizon line of flavor touching on sea salt, lime and stone. That stony, flinty character keeps the structure tight, set for long aging.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 94 W&SOnce again there is a petrol note to the more floral and less citrus-infused nose. There is excellent richness to the sappy medium weight flavors that possess just a bit more overall depth and persistence on the balanced finale.Burghound | 90-92 BHButterscotch and citronella aromas and flavors mark this smooth white that’s toasty too, with vivid acidity keeping this focused and driving the long finish. Drink now through 2025. 900 cases made, 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

This has a creamy, hedonistic feel, with honeycomb, apricot, brioche, white ginger and creamed yellow apple flavors layered seamlessly and carrying through a long, acacia-tinged finish. Drink now through 2025. 800 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS(Condrieu “Jardin Suspendu”- Pierre Jean Villa) Pierre Jean Villa’s Condrieu “Jardin Suspendu” is composed from a couple of different parcels, with about half the cuvée hailing from vines planted by Pierre Jean in 2009, with the other half of the bottling made from vines planted in the 1970s. The combination of younger and older vine fruit works very nicely in this cuvée, with the wine raised in older demi-muids. The 2019 Jardin Suspendu comes in at fourteen percent octane and offers up a beautifully refined bouquet of pear, almond, acacia blossoms, a touch of citrus zest, a beautiful base of white soil tones and gentle spice tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and beautifully balanced, with a lovely core, fine mineral undertow, zesty acids and lovely focus and grip on the long and complex finish. There is absolutely nothing blowsy here, as this wine has structure, cut and grip (attributes that are sometimes hard to find in Condrieu from warmer growing seasons like 2019). (Drink between 2020-2035).John Gilman | 92+ JG

The 2019 Chardonnay Laurelwood District comes from seven different vineyard sites throughout the appellation. It’s energetic, spicy and mineral-driven this vintage, with transparent aromas of white peach, beeswax, jasmine and flint. The palate pairs spicy fruit with exotic floral undertones. It has a satiny, expansive texture balanced by a spine of shimmery acidity, and it finishes long and expressive.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA crunchy and bright chardonnay with sliced lemon and honeysuckle, crushed stone and jasmine. Some lime and green mango too. Lovely acidity and hints of tannins give tension and energy to the wine at the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThis Chardonnay, made with fruit from the Ponzi family’s original 1970 plantings and a series of Laurelwood District vineyards, is quite a treat. Its floral qualities are almost too numerous to fit into a tasting note. Suffice it to say that honeysuckle, flowering tobacco and lemon catmint provide a heady amount of jasmine and citrus notes. Lighter-bodied, with a smooth mouthfeel, this lovely Chardonnay has flavors of Bosc pear, toasted filberts and a clean sea breeze. The acidity is lively, with a touch of butter on the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEA handsome Chardonnay that offers elegantly complex apple and spice flavors, with a steely hint of minerality as this finishes on a vibrant accent. Drink now. 722 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThis perfumed white offers brisk Asian pear and apple blossom notes against a tonic mineral backdrop. It’s a bit more delicate and sheer in style compared to the producer’s more powerful, single-vineyard bottlings but delightfully thirst-quenching. The Laurelwood District in the Chehalem Mountains became an AVA in 2020 based on a petition by the Ponzi family to highlight the region’s deep, wind-blown loess topsoil over decomposed basalt.Decanter | 90 DEC

The fruit for this impressive wine come entirely from the Martinelli Charles Ranch three miles in from the coast. Nutty, full-bodied and earthy, it shows a youthful grip around the edges of its otherwise lush, complex and generous richness, with a mineral-like quality of slate and salt on the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2019 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast has bright aromas of lemon, orange and peach with touches of almonds and wet stone. The medium-bodied palate offers an alluring dynamic of tangy acidity and a rounded, creamy texture, finishing long with pure flavors. 3,461 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2019 Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview is vibrant with saline, oceanic minerality, lemon pith, and tarragon. The palate is curvy but focused, with green apple, Meyer lemon, delicate oak spice, and mouthwatering acidity. Drink 2023-2032.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThe 2019 Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview) is delicious. It offers up a beguiling array of orchard and citrus fruit, along with crushed rocks, mint, lime and white pepper nuance that add brilliance. This appellation-level Chardonnay delivers, the goods, and then some.Vinous Media | 91 VMCrisp and direct, with fresh-cut Gala apple and lemon curd flavors backed by vibrant acidity. Shows dried sage accents in the midpalate, with minerally notes on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 3,461 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2019 Condrieu Chery is always a more steely, mineral-driven example of this appellation, but it packs a punch in 2019 and has powerful notes of buttered citrus, pineapple, honeysuckle, and a liquid rock-like minerality. These carry to a rich, full-bodied Condrieu with an opulent texture, moderate acidity, and a great finish. As with most 2019 Condrieu (and 2018s), it’s not going to be the longest lived, but who cares? Drink this brilliant wine over the coming 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom 70-year-old vines, the 2016 Condrieu Chéry is a bit more concentrated than Niero’s Les Ravines bottling, but otherwise, it’s similar in its aromas of crushed stone and pineapple. Like the other wines at this estate, it’s aged 12 months in a mix of stainless steel (60%) and oak barrels (40%), giving it a rich, slightly oily texture. It’s harmonious and long, with pineapple and melon flavors giving way to gingery spice on the finish. (JCRobert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP

Elegantly complex and vibrant, with floral apple, lemon verbena and spice flavors that build toward a steely finish. Drink now through 2023. 424 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2019 Chardonnay “Hyland Vineyard” bottling from Résonance Wines is a lovely wine. It comes in at 13.5 percent octane and seems to show that a bit of the malolactic fermentation was blocked, as it has that lovely essence of pear aromatic note that one finds in many of Louis Jadot’s white Burgundies as well. The nose jumps from the glass in a blend of pear, apple, a touch of pastry cream, raw almond, a touch of vanillin oak and a lovely base of soil tones. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a good core and soil signature, zesty acids and a long, nicely balanced and stylish finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2021-2030)John Gilman | 90 JG

Bracing minerals, sliced pears and apples, wet stones and a gently floral edge here. So pure and fresh. The palate has a succulent, powerfully aligned drive of fresh apple and pear flavors with a mouthwateringly fresh stream of acidity. More citrusy at the finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSLighter and livelier than the 2018 (a warmer vintage, which weighed in a full percent higher in finished alcohol by volume), Rippon’s 2019 Mature Vine Riesling strikes a winning balance between fresh green apple, tangy citrus and spring-like florals. It’s medium-bodied (12% alcohol) and almost dry, with great concentration and length. Classically built, it should age well for over a decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPLike many wines made by Nick Mills at Rippon, this needs to time to reveal its true character. This is an attractive Riesling with silken texture, but it is a quiet wine that requires exploration. Expect subtle yet stimulating floral aromas, and apple and lemon peel allied with brioche-like notes from time on lees playing a supporting role. New Zealand Riesling can be austere due to its acidity, but Mills has found a happy medium between acidity and sweetness, leaving a dry, clean, balanced finish.Vinous Media | 93 VM

A relatively young estate, Lavantureux is definitely a domaine to watch. Arnaud and David are now running things, with a recent 0.95ha acquisition in Vau de Vey. Farmed by hand, this is a delightful Premier Cru which emphasises the character of this steep, stony climat. Lovely density on the palate with an intriguing lime character, balanced by mineral, flinty notes and a touch of creamy oak adding more complexity. Subtle and nuanced. Drinking Window 2022 - 2027.Decanter | 95 DECAromas of honeysuckle, lemon grass and citrus follow through to a medium body with fine tannins and a fresh, bright finish. Lots of lemon rind at the end. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey is a fine success, offering up aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, nutmeg and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, bright and chiseled, with fine depth at the core and a saline finish, this is certainly oak-inflected in style but integrates that patina more completely than the Vauprin.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Chablis Vau de Vey 1er Cru has a lovely, pure, well-defined bouquet of mineral-tinged citrus fruit, dewy meadow and light flinty scents. The palate is taut and fresh with orange peel and a touch of yellow plum on the entry. There are hints of tropical fruit, but they are discreet, and the wine maintains wonderful focus on the finish. Delicious!Vinous Media | 92 VM

Just a whisper of vanilla wafts on the nose of this steel-honed, fruity Chardonnay. A richly concentrated expression of a ripe vintage, it has Mirabelle and white-melon flavors that are pertly balanced by streaks of lime. Creamy in texture and endless on the finish, it’s irresistible young but likely to drink well through 2030.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEA dynamic estate in Lignerolles, with David and Arnaux now in charge of the winemaking. Vauprin is one of the estate’s signature wines - a selection from a small, southerly-facing, parcel on local hills named Vauprin. This is a serious, intense Chablis that balances a luxurious texture on the palate, concentration of fruit, along with the unmistakable lift and drive of Chablis. Drinking well now though it will be even better in 12 months. Drinking Window 2022 - 2026.Decanter | 93 DECLemon tree, mineral and flint on the nose with a hint of matchstick. Full-bodied with density and intensity. So much character here. Some phenolics. Flavorful finish. This is so real. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2019 Chablis Vauprin has a backward bouquet, offering sultry malic scents that gradually open to show a little undergrowth along with attractive apple peel and dewy meadow notes. The palate is fresh on the entry, offering lively, vivacious orange zest and citrus flavors. Lovely peach notes surface toward the finish. A Chablis-Villages that aims for wide appeal and, judging by this sample, will succeed.Vinous Media | 90 VM