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The organic G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Bricco delle Viole first shows a fragile side, but it eventually rolls onto much greater momentum and focus as it opens in the glass. This is always one of my favorite wines from this excellent producer, and I love it especially thanks to its fine nuances of redcurrant, pressed flower and something a little savory like peat moss. There is a hint of ashy stone or brimstone. All of these little details emerge with terrific sharpness in an epic vintage such as 2021. Fruit comes from a seven-hectare plot at 400 to 480 meters in elevation on Sant’Agata marl soils with marine fossils.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPDark cherries, orange rind, dried flowers and cinnamon on the nose. The palate is incisive and medium- to full-bodied with tender fruit, refined and polished tannins and a long, persistent, flavorful finish. Elegant and almost ethereal in essence. Really well crafted and detailed. Better in 2026.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Barolo Bricco delle Viole is a wine of stature and breeding. Vertical in shape, the Bricco delle Viole has so much to offer. Dark-toned fruit, leather, incense, gravel and licorice add an attractive savory edge. The 2021 is an especially somber, potent Bricco delle Viole. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon.Vinous Media | 96 VMCamphor, violet, woodland berry and dark spice are just some of the aromas you’ll find on the fragrant 2021 Bricco delle Viole from G.D. Vajra. It’s smooth and delicious, with flavors of ripe Marasca cherry, licorice, brown pepper and a burst of blood orange on the close. It’s well balanced thanks to taut, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThis high-altitude, late-ripening site was picked between 13-18 October in 2021. Thick-skinned, healthy grapes saw a long, slow fermentation with a lengthy 51-day submerged cap maceration. It is quite a substantial, mouthfilling Bricco delle Viole that requires further ageing to assimilate. Complex aromas of cinnamon, brushwood, violet, mint and cherry blossom emerge with intertwining headiness. There is fleshy richness to the dark berry core, but it is neatly and tightly corseted by the suede-textured tannins. Youthful tension is amplified by signature linear acidity. Hints of liquorice and juniper percolate on the finish.Decanter Magazine | 95 DEC

The G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Coste di Rose (a certified organic wine) is especially fragrant and floral in this vintage. It could be the power of suggestion given the wine’s name ("slope of roses"), but you absolutely get hints of heritage rose or rose hip in this beautiful Nebbiolo. The 2021 vintage hits the ball out of the park. There are characteristic hints of tar and something that reminds me of oil paints or linseed oil. I love the clarity of the mouthfeel.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPWhat an intoxicating nose of flowers like violets and roses and hints of cedar and blueberries. The palate is compact, with delineated fruit and superfine, elegant tannins. Succulent, but with a lovely, polished, underlying structure. Already a joy to drink, but will surely improve substantially with a couple of years of bottle age.James Suckling | 96 JSLoaded with finesse, the 2021 Coste di Rose has classic Barolo aromas of wild red berry, rose petal, camphor and spice. It’s smooth and delicious, doling out wild raspberry, strawberry compote, star anise and black tea before a minty finish. Polished tannins and fresh acidity keep it impeccably balanced. While already tempting, the best is yet to come. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2021 Barolo Coste di Rose is soft and quite supple, qualities that make it easy to taste, even in the early going. Crushed flowers, dried cherry, mint, rose petal are nicely lifted in this understated, quiet Barolo. This comes across as quite open for a young Barolo.Vinous Media | 91 VM

From one of the most sought-after crus sites today, the G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Ravera opens to a vibrant ruby color. The wine takes its time opening, especially when tasted young, but that delay bodes well for its future bottle evolution. This wine is built like a wall, with each brick representing its own distinct character. There is dark fruit, pressed flower, herb, ebony and a very elegant mineral side. The bouquet is direct and vertical, with lifted intensity over a medium-plus palate. The tannins are elegantly managed, and this wine has the latitude for long cellar aging. It ferments in stainless steel and ages in large oak casks.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPWild berry, dog rose, violet, hay, menthol and spice aromas waft out of the glass on the incredibly fragrant and gorgeous 2021 Ravera from G.D. Vajra. Full-bodied and succulent, the delicious palate delivers raspberry compote, strawberry, baking spice and star anise alongside tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it youthfully tense and balanced. Drink 2031–2046. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is laced with bright red-toned fruit, iron, spice, cedar, tobacco and dried herbs. Bright acids and beams of tannin give the Ravera its distinctively driving feel. Today, the 2021 is a bit sinewy. I suspect it will always remain a vibrant, steely Barolo. The Ravera is a fine choice for readers who appreciate the more savory, mineral side of Barolo.Vinous Media | 95+ VMHarvested around the same time as Bricco delle Viole, the Ravera saw an even longer maceration – 55 days – and slightly more time in wood. All GD Vajra’s Barolo mature in large Slavonian oak casks, allowing site to shine. Reserved to begin with, this reveals tobacco, bay leaf and wet stone. Full and dense with some of the richness that the Bricco delle Viole expresses but ultimately steelier in temperament. Tangy blackcurrant is underscored by a distinct mineral edge. Firm, chiselled tannins build in strength without becoming brawny. Definitely cellarworthy.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThis wine shows aromas of black cherries, fresh violets, thyme and touches of mint and smoke. Relaxing attack on the palate, with firm, dusty yet ripe tannins and crisp acidity. Medium- to full-bodied, it needs time to reach its full potential. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2021 Gagliole is 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s vineyards in Panzano’s famed Conca d’Oro. Rich, powerful and explosive, the 2021 captures all the natural radiance of this sector in Chianti Classico. Sumptuous red cherry fruit, blood orange, spice, menthol and rose petal build as this luscious, racy Sangiovese shows off all it has to offer.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The organic 2021 Chianti Classico Rubiolo is an excellent value wine with 35,000 bottles released. The wine is all Sangiovese sourced from three sites in Castellina, Panzano and Badia a Passignano. The wine delivers a dark ruby color, and although the aromatic intensity is measured, there are delicately perfumed tones of cherry, raspberry and blood orange that feel punchy and bright. You also get pretty floral tones.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPAromas of ripe red fruit, licorice, spices and pink peppercorns. Medium- to full-bodied, juicy and tense with vivid acidity and polished tannins. Hints of walnuts and savory herbs at the end. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2021 Barolo Cannubi is another stellar Barolo in this range from Claudio Fenocchio. Aromatic and lifted, the 2021 is classic Cannubi. Bright acids cut through a core of sweet red-toned fruit, mint, orange peel, cinnamon and new leather. This chiseled, nuanced Barolo is a winner.Vinous Media | 95 VMA restrained Barolo with red currants, red cherries, bright violets and a balsamic touch on the nose. More elegant than powerful, it’s medium- to full-bodied with enjoyable thick yet ripe tannins, crisp acidity and cherry stones in the finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSWhile based in Monforte d’Alba, the Fenocchio family has owned a small 0.5ha slice in Cannubi Boschis for over 50 years and it has been bottled separately since 1980. Striking scents are redolent of rhubarb compote, cherry bark, toasted hazelnut and warm, dusty earth. This is full, dense and even a bit chewy as supple fruit fuses with seemingly pliant tannins which build with dry, sandy texture, providing a firm, well defined frame. Citrussy acidity is direct and penetrating, with a thrillingly crisp finish. I wouldn’t touch it for at least a couple of years – Fenocchio’s wines age exceptionally well.Decanter Magazine | 94 DEC

Dark aromas of graphite, potpourri, smoke, bergamot and dried cherries. Firm tannins on the palate, with a full body, a dusty texture, refreshing acidity and a powerful finish. Extracted, meaty, concentrated and balanced for the long haul, with an amazing minty aftertaste. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Barolo Villero is laced with spice, new leather, herbs, menthol and licorice. It exudes depth, structure and classicism, with plenty of the balsamic inflections that are such signatures of Villero. I admire the wine’s virile intensity and overall power. This is a superb showing.Vinous Media | 96 VMMy top pick from this estate in 2021, the Villero bottling is crafted from 65-year-old vines. The southwest-facing plot is characterised by calcareous clay rich in iron, which typically gives solidly structured wines. The house’s confidently extracted style accentuates this but is so well honed that the wine remains in brilliant balance. It is as expressive as it is textured: entrancing aromas convey smoke, cinnamon, sarsaparilla and a burst of violet. While tight and vertical to begin with, a mouthful of stoniness makes way for a richness of dark fruit through the mid-palate, all hemmed in by sophisticated, grainy tannins while sappy acidity lends a cleansing quality.Decanter Magazine | 96 DEC

Delicious and so enjoyable, this juicy, full-bodied red is one of the best Dolcetto’s out there, doling out flavors of ripe black cherry, black raspberry and white pepper. Taut tannins and fresh acidity keep it balanced. Drink through 2025. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is seamless and luxurious in the glass. Silky tannins wrap around a core of black fruit, mocha, licorice, chocolate and lavender. The 2021 has closed down quite a bit since I last tasted it, but that is not entirely surprising, given its pedigree. This is such a captivating wine. What a knockout.Vinous Media | 100 VMA rather linear and tight Grace with currant, graphite and cedar aromas and flavors. Notes of spearmint, red currants and pine nuts. Some crushed stone. It’s medium-bodied with very fine tannins. Very refined at the end. About two thirds of the lower plot of the vineyard are from new plantings. Pure cabernet. Give this four to five years to come around, but it’s already beautiful to drink.James Suckling | 98 JSStarting with the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, this inky purple-hued beauty offers a rich, powerful nose of ripe black and blue fruits intermixed with spring flowers, violets, and chocolate, with an almost Graves-like scorched earth character. It’s beautifully textured, full-bodied, has a concentrated mid-palate, sweet tannins, and a great finish. This regal, balanced, incredibly impressive Cabernet Sauvignon needs 4-5 years in the cellar and will have 20-30 years of overall longevity. It’s a special wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA vividly ripe red, with a nicely inlaid juicy streak that gives the flavors of red and black currant and blackberry a bristling energy. Cast iron, tobacco, violet and applewood notes underscore the finish. Rather backward now, this is well worth the wait. Best from 2026 through 2040. 210 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

A gorgeous intensity of graphite and grilled seaweed with blackcurrants, black cherries, peaches and pine. Complex, full-bodied and very structured with slightly chewy tannins, yet not overpowering. Muscular and well formed. Beautifully textured. This will age wonderfully. Second release, mostly from hillside vines. Made by Helen Keplinger. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Cornelius Grove is a big, big step up from the 2019. It offers a combination of mountain freshness with notable mid-palate intensity and volume. Dried herbs, menthol, crushed rocks and spice meld into a core of blue/purplish fruit in this powerhouse Cabernet Sauvignon. Exceptionally vivid and explosive, the 2021 possesses tons of intensity to match its wonderfully complex, dynamic personality. Magnificent.Vinous Media | 97+ VMThis is saturated with cassis, plum puree and linzer torte notes riveted with a cast iron spine that runs from start to finish. Flashes of violet, hibiscus, licorice snap, white pepper and ink fill in all of the available space as this cruises through an authoritative finish. With a terrific mineral-fruit interplay, this vivid wine requires patience. Best from 2028 through 2044. 262 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 2021 Haut-Bages Libéral is a powerful, dense wine. Black cherry, mocha, plum, licorice and incense are all amplified in a brooding, dense Pauillac endowed with notable textural richness and tons of sheer power. Aeration releases the wine’s bracing acidity and aromatics, yet the 2021 remains quite rich. Yields were just 31.5 hectoliters-per-hectare, about 30% lower than normal. Haut-Bages Libéral is a rare 2021 that needs time to shed some of its considerable baby fat. It’s a seriously impressive wine from Claire Lurton. The 2021 was aged 40% in new oak, 40% in once-filled barrels and 20% in a combination of amphora and concrete vat.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis is already open and delicious with cherry, cassis, blueberry and chocolate-orange character. Some peach notes, too. Medium to full body with velvety, ripe and plush tannins. Caressing, yet it remains firm and solid. Lovely, creamy finish. 90% cabernet sauvignon and 10% merlot. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification.James Suckling | 94-95 JSVery aromatic on the nose, this has savoury, fruit and floral tones; liquorice, cola and earth with cranberries, strawberries and black cherries. Dense and quite darkly fruited on the palate but with a brightness from the acidity giving a mouthwatering attack before the flavours deepen and widen in the mouth. So many layers, really showing the Pauillac power: everything presented in high definition with a bold structure even though the individual elements are so precise and defined. It’s racy and confident but also complex with a spiced cedar, clove, cinnamon, liquorice and wet stone/ chalky element to the tannins that fill the mouth and don’t let go. A lovely wine with lots of potential from Claire Villars-Lurton! 65% grand vin. A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon - the highest percentage ever - and 10% Merlot, which usually comprises between 15 to 25% of the blend. 11.5% press wine. Ageing 16 months, 40% new oak, 40% one-year-old oak, 20% amphoras.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2021 Haut-Bages-Libéral has turned out nicely, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, minty berries, pencil shavings and cigar wrapper, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate that’s impressively concentrated, built around a muscular frame of ripe, powdery tannins that assert themselves on the youthfully structured finish. It will reward a bit of patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RP

The 2021 Haut-Bailly is incredibly poised, even if it is clearly a wine of reserve in this vintage. Its vertical build speaks of pure sophistication. Time in the glass brings out hints of dried herbs, menthol, licorice, pine, blackberry and underbrush. Most of the blend is Cabernet, so the flavor profile and overall structural feel is quite savory. I can’t wait to see how the 2021 ages. It may very well surprise down the road.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is a very aromatic, precise wine. Ripe fruits and density are balanced by the wine’s freshness and acidity. It has structure that brings out creamy tannins to balance the succulent black fruit flavors. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WESeductive blackcurrant and juniper with purple floral touches on the nose. Smooth texture with high acidity giving sharp strawberry fruit balanced by both savoury and mineral touches - slate, crushed stone, smoke, violets and dark chocolate - very much in the style of the vintage with no harshness or overt opulence but instead gives a pure sense of classicism, restraint and refinement. Elegant and well structured with a long determined finish - this will continue to deliver pleasure for a long time. 10% press wine. No chaptalisation. 30% grand vin. 3.9pH. 3% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. Yield 19hl/ha. First year in the new cellar.Decanter | 95 DECLots of graphite and crushed-stone character with redcurrants and pine needles. Medium body with silky and layered tannins. Pretty balance and elegance. 65% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 10% petit verdot and 3% cabernet franc.James Suckling | 95-96 JSThe 2021 Haut-Bailly, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, reveals a complex, brooding bouquet with aromas of blackcurrant, spices, plums, spring flowers and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, it’s a lively, rather muscular wine with a fleshy, dense core of fruit, tangy acids and powdery tannins. Despite its firm character, I like its overall balance. It should age gracefully over the next 10 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2021 Château Haut-Bailly checks in as 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc. It’s another elegant, pure, incredibly balanced wine from this château, offering complex aromatics (cassis, smoked tobacco, spicy wood, and earth), medium body, ripe, supple tannins, and a great finish. Hitting 13% alcohol with a pH of 3.9, this seamless beauty will drink nicely right out of the gate yet evolve for 25-30 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93-95+ JDThe 2021 Haut-Bailly is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc, harvested from 27 September to 11 October, and aging in 50% new oak. Deep garnet-purple colored, it is a little closed and broody to begin, opening out to offer notes of plum preserves, warm cassis, and black raspberries, plus suggestions of fertile loam, tapenade, tar, and smoked meats. Medium-bodied, the palate has wonderful tension and energy with plenty of black fruit layers and a fine-grained texture, culminating in a long, lifted finish. This was the first vintage in the new winery, and 50% of the crop went into the grand vin.The Wine Independent | 92-94+ TWI

This is a magnificent wine. It is the epitome of great white Bordeaux. Its texture and spice give an alluring touch to the lime, apricot and kiwi flavors that come through the toast. This is a classic. Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2021 Haut-Brion confirms its fine showing en primeur, cementing its status as one of the wines of the vintage. Its complex bouquet of dark berries and cassis mingled with notions of cigar wrapper and burning embers unfurls in the glass. Full-bodied, deep and velvety, it’s concentrated and layered with a multidimensional core of fruit, sweet tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. Reflecting the timeless elegance of Haut-Brions from cooler years, the 2021 will delight Bordeaux purists.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPOne of the absolute stand out wines on 2021 with an electric appeal almost unrivalled in the vintage. Blackcurrant leaf, dark chocolate, cocoa powder, rose petals, sweet cherries and bramble fruits on the nose. Incredibly lively and energetic on the palate with a burst of sharp, sweet and sour fruits that just fills the mouth coated by chalk, slate and pencil lead mineral tannins that give a intensity while the fruit persistency lingers above and through to the long finish. Such delicacy yet multi-layered and full of concentration, clear ripeness and power, though delivered with suaveness and style. Tannins are firm and robust, mouthfilling, no doubt about that, but they give the structure and frame to the plush and plump fruit which also has such a crystalline purity to it. I love the intensity and also these spicy bitter dark chocolate and liquorice elements on the finish which give nuance.Decanter | 97 DECA very structured young Haut-Brion with blackberry, blackcurrant, black-olive and mushroom character. Medium to full-bodied with a driving balance of firm and ripe tannins and gorgeous fruit. 50.3% merlot, 38% cabernet sauvignon and 11.7% cabernet franc.James Suckling | 97-98 JSAs with the Clarence, the 2021 Château Haut-Brion is a darker, richer, more powerful wine. Currants, smoked black cherries, graphite, chocolate, and tobacco notes all define the nose, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a straight, focused, beautifully precise mouthfeel, gorgeous yet substantial tannins, and a great finish. It’s going to hit maturity in 7-8 years and have 30 years of longevity or more. The 2021 is mostly Merlot, checking in as 50.3% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11.7% Cabernet Franc, hitting 13.8% alcohol and resting in 73% new French oak.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JDThe 2021 Haut-Brion is an excellent wine. Despite its mid-weight structure, the 2021 possesses notable dynamic energy and layers of complexity that build with time in the glass. Scorched earth, leather, tobacco, incense, licorice and dried herbs are some of the many notes that open with aeration. The 2021 is a quiet, understated Haut-Brion, but all its signatures are present. Today, the it is not quite as showy as it was en primeur, but it is a fine effort nonetheless.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2021 Haut-Brion is a blend of 50% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 12% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs a lot of swirling and convincing to coax out notions of redcurrant jelly, raspberry coulis, blackcurrant pastilles, and graphite, plus suggestions of cloves, crushed rocks, and underbrush. Medium-bodied, the palate is a little like sucking on stones at this stage, chock full of minerals with emerging black and red fruits, framed by ripe, grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and earthy. A very different style and expression of Haut-Brion than in recent years, and yet this is equally evocative and simply gorgeous.The Wine Independent | 93-95 TWI

An extremely subtle application of wood can be found on the cool if decidedly reluctant nose of spiced green apple, beeswax and citrus zest aromas. The palate impression of the medium weight plus flavors is quite interesting in that there is excellent concentration and power yet they are not massively scaled while maintaining impeccable balance on the palate etching and stunningly long finish, indeed I could still taste this 3 hours later. This is one extremely classy Montrachet and one of the jewels of the 2021 vintage.Burghound | 97 BHBeeswax and lime blossom, especially the latter, which Guillaume finds typical of Montrachet. The Montrachet shows both class and intensity over and above the Bâtard as indeed should be the case. Brilliantly racy despite the intensity. This year there is one 228 litre barrel instead of the usual 350, and made up in zebra fashion, half new wood with alternate dowels. Drink from 2030-2040.Jasper Morris | 95 JMThere’s only one 228-liter barrel of the 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru, so Boillot asked his favored cooper to assemble a special barrel, with alternating new and used staves. Delivering aromas of pear, honeycomb, freshly baked bread, spices and toasted nuts, it’s full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit and a long, nutmeg-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru is incredibly airy and nuanced. Candied lemon peel, mint, tangerine oil and white flowers show effortless grace. This is an especially restrained, super-elegant Montrachet that shows Puligny’s finesse. The 2021 is absolutely exquisite. I doubt I will ever taste it again, though. Bright saline notes punctuate the super-expressive finish. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VM

Stunning aromatics lift from the 2021 Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills, which pours a jeweled ruby and offers a mix of red and black fruits, an amazing floral perfume, pine, and crushed stones, all well-interwoven. Seamless on the palate, this medium to full-bodied red has a silky mineral texture, with velvety tannins and gorgeous concentration throughout. With long-lasting energy and outstanding purity, it’s hard to resist now and feels as though it will last for the next 15 or more years. This is one of the best wines I have ever tasted from Mimi Casteel.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JD

The deep ruby 2021 Pinot Noir St. Dolores Estate takes on a darker though approachable profile, with notes of lavender, fresh blackberry, wild cherry, and anise. Balanced with great energy and a more refined feel, it has fine tannins (although it has structure) and offers bright, even acidity and a long finish. This is already indicating that it’s going to be a remarkable wine with serious aging potential. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDDolores must be the patron saint of elegant Pinot Noir, as this beautiful wine will make you want to light a candle in her honor. The wine’s raspberry and strawberry aromas are punctuated by wisps of cedar, watermelon rind and almond roca. Frisky acidity and plush tannins back flavors of nectarines, cherries and saline. Amen.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2021 Pinot Noir Estate St. Dolores grumbles up from the glass with earth tones and exotic spice, paving the way for dusty dried strawberries. Racy and sleek, it opens with a saline tinge, giving way to dark red berry depths and inner herbal tones. Its zesty acidity refreshes the palate even as a combination of primary concentration and grippy tannins takes hold through the long and structured finale.Vinous Media | 93+ VMAttractive aromas of cherries and blueberries with hints of violets, cocoa and chalk. Medium-bodied, clean and pure with crunchy blue-fruited and polished, almost glossy texture. Vivid and flavorful with a firm finish. Better from 2025.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2021 Malbec Jardin de Hormigas Meteora originates from Paraje Altamira and was aged for 12 months in concrete vessels. Purple in hue. The subtle, nuanced nose features violet, sage and fennel notes alongside plum and blackberry. It has a dry, lean, chalky texture with an athletic, focused profile in which the energy and mouthfeel enhance the light-footed character. The 2021 is a modern, beautifully sculpted red.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2021 Clos des Chevaliers from Jean-Michel Chartron is a breathtakingly beautiful young wine. It delivers a refined aromatic constellation of apple, pear, fresh almond, crème pâtissière, a very complex base of limestone minerality, fruit blossoms, vanillin oak and a beautiful topnote of lemon zest. On the palate the wine is pure, precise and full-bodied, with a gorgeous core of fruit, stunning mineral undertow, a superb spine of acidity and laser-like focus on the long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. (Drink between 2029 - 2070)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2021 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevaliers Grand Cru, which includes one new barrel out of the four (instead of the usual dozen), has a vivid bouquet with yellow fruit, nectarine, crushed limestone and subtle fumé aromas. The palate is well balanced with vibrant acidity, taut and fresh with notes of tangerine, citrus fruit and a pinch of spice. Linear in style, this lingers nicely, though it just needs a bit more nervosité on the finish. Still, this is very promising.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA deft though perceptible dollop of wood sets off the ultra-floral-scented nose of mineral reduction, petrol and a plenitude of spice wisps. The large-scaled flavors are borderline painfully intense while displaying an almost pungent minerality on the chiseled, youthfully austere and strikingly long finale. This is potentially brilliant.Burghound | 93-96 BH4 barrels from 0.55ha is not a huge yield! Fine clean glowing pale yellow. The bouquet is promising too and shows the upper hillside authority of Chevalier. The nervous tension is very well incorporated into the weight of classy fruit, with a fine long and distinguished finish. A beautifully nuanced 2021. Excellent finish. Drink from 2028-2036.Jasper Morris | 93-97 JM

The 2021 Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Jean Chartron is another outstanding wine in the making. The complex nose wafts from the glass in a mix of apple, pear, a fine base of chalky soil tones, a touch of almond, spring flowers crème pâtissière and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and nascently complex, with a fine core of fruit, excellent focus and balance, bouncy acids and a long, balanced and soil-driven finish. This not showing quite the same mineral dimension as the top two Puligny premier crus right now, but it may well catch up in this regard with some extended bottle age. Fine juice. (Drink between 2027 - 2060)John Gilman | 94 JGThis delicious wine presents aromas of citrus peel and hawthorn flowers coloured with a chalky, saline mineral edge and notes of cream, butter, and spice. This year the wine is made exclusively from a domaine-owned parcel in Pernand from the lieu-dit En Charlemagne that was planted in 1961 and picked on 25 September just before the rain. It produced a single barrel, which is ageing in a two-year-old cask from the cooper Chassin.Decanter | 93 DECOnce again there is an attractive coolness to the essence of green apple, spice and mineral reduction scents. There is superb delineation to the bigger-bodied and more powerful flavors that are at once muscular yet refined, all wrapped in a moderately austere finale where a touch of wood slowly emerges. This tightly wound and very promising effort should age like a classic Corton-Charlemagne.Burghound | 92-94 BHOne barrel, an exchange. Paler colour and correctly chiselled. Very tight and with excellent concentration. The length is good too. Just a baby, but with promise. Stony lemons to finish. Drink from 2026-2031.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, reduced to one and a half barrels due to the absence of any exchange, sports quite a bit of reduction on the nose that makes it difficult to read at present. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, quite taut and maybe just missing a little tension on the finish. Fine, though Chartron has made better in the past.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle 1er Cru, which is half the normal yield, sports a very subtle reduction on the nose, but there is fine delineation and focus here. The palate is well balanced with good weight, lime mixed with tangerine and nectarine, crisp acidity with a lightly spiced finish. There is real nobility evident here.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMThis delicious wine puts the emphasis firmly on citrus and mineral on the initial attack, while the texture on the palate opens up to show concentration, breadth, and spice. The grapes come from a 1.16-hectare plot at the northern end of the vineyard that the family has owned since 1917. Portions have been replanted over time, and the oldest vines date to the ‘50s and ‘60s. The fruit is gently pressed, and the must settled overnight before fermentation in cask (25% new) with relatively few lees.Decanter | 93 DEC

The smoky, savory and meaty nose pulls you into this remarkably firmly structured Morgon for the 2021 vintage. Both fleshy and tannic, this is packed with wild-blackberry fruit. So much drive and energy! From vines planted in 1965. Matured in oak casks. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2021 Morgon Côte du Py Javernières was bottled after 12 months in used barrels plus four months in tank. This has a beautiful nose of wilted rose petal-infused vivacious red fruit and with time, touches of desiccated orange peel. The medium-bodied palate has ripe tannins, granular in texture, and very fine backbone, yet elegance from start to finish. This is a joyful, effervescent Javernières from one of its best exponents.Vinous Media | 94 VM

TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Weighty, profound and rich, this is a stunning Les Clos which has an extra level of depth and richness that would please many a Côte-d’Or fan. White flowers on the nose, spice and stone fruit on the palate with 40% oak and a lingering, freshening mineral undertow. A grand cru with gravitas that will drink for 15-20 years. Droin has 1.4ha with vine age averaging 40 years. Its plots are located in various sectors of the cru with some lower down in the western sector, and part on the blue clay soils on the mid-slope.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a clean and precise bouquet, flint and chalk filtering through the citrus fruit, gaining intensity as it opens in the glass, though I feel the Grenouilles has more sophistication. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, very harmonious, nicely poised with a dab of stem ginger and white pepper towards the finish that is resolutely classic in style. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMLike the Grenouilles, there is enough wood to merit mentioning but not enough to overshadow the cool, airy and very fresh aromas of oyster shell, white flower and ocean breeze. The succulent yet powerful and delineated flavors brim with both minerality and dry extract, all wrapped in a driving bitter lemon-inflected and youthfully austere finale. This is a lovely combination of power and refinement that should amply repay a decade plus of cellaring.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Droin’s Vaudésir comes from just over 1ha with vines planted on both north- and south-facing slopes. A little subdued on the nose and palate, this is a subtle grand cru with plenty of definition, and will blossom with two to three years additional bottle age. No oak.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2021 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a taut and fresh bouquet, wonderful mineralité with a hint of smoke and flint coming through. The palate is well balanced with a saline note, fine depth, lemon and a little more lime. Builds nicely in the mouth, a lovely Vaudésir.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMHere too moderate wood sets off the overtly spicy and ripe aromas of white and yellow peach, iodine and hints of seashore. The sleek, delicious and intense flavors are just a bit more refined, indeed they are almost delicate, while still delivering excellent length on the citrus-tinged finish where a bit of wood slowly emerges.Burghound | 91-94 BH

Droin’s Fourchaume is located in the Vaupulent sector, on deep, clay-rich soils. A warmer site, this is a;ready very appealing with nice touches of baked apples and stone-fruit on the palate, with softer acidity and concentration. Although accessible early, this has the concentration to age extremely well and will deliver more saline aspects with more bottle age.Decanter | 92 DECA whiff of mineral reduction is present on the nose of pear and apple compote where there is just enough Chablis typicity to be convincing. The succulent, round and palate coating flavors possess good underlying tension while delivering solid depth and length on the delicious finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth.Burghound | 90-92 BHThe 2021 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru shows a little more reduction on the nose compared to other cuvées but a pleasant flintiness develops with time. The palate is well balanced with a cohesive entry, fine weight although it doesn’t quite deliver the same precision as the Mont de Milieu at the moment. Fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM