White Wines

wines

Normally, there are four barrels of Bâtard-Montrachet in the Chartrons’ cellars, but this year, there are only one and a half casks. The wine is outstanding in 2021, offering up scents of apple, pear, a touch of tangerine, musky floral tones, almond, lemon peel and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with racy acids, excellent focus and grip, seamless balance and excellent backend mineral drive on the long and complex finish. A superb wine in the making. (Drink between 2028 - 2060)John Gilman | 95 JGRestrained and equally cool aromas are slightly riper with its mix of white orchard fruit, especially white peach, and a plethora of floral nuances. There is terrific punch to the seductively textured yet quite powerful medium weight plus flavors that terminate in a clean, dry and long if decidedly compact finish. Patience strongly advised as this should age beautifully and will need it.Burghound | 92-95 BHThis Bâtard stretches from exotic aromas of passionfruit to ripe apple and pear with rich hints of butter, cream, and baking spices. The texture is classic Bâtard, creamy and rich with balanced acidity and impressive power. The grapes are located from a small parcel on the Chassagne side near the cabotte at the top of the slope. The grapes are lightly crushed before fermentation in older casks. This wine will open soon and should drink well for twenty years.Decanter | 94 DEC1.5 barrels made. Bright powerful primrose colour. Some weight too. A little lactic oak. Not really speaking as yet. It has the volume but it is looking a touch clumsy at the moment. This should refine. A tiny rough green touch suggests Jean-Michel Chartron but the fining will sort that out. Drink from 2028-2034.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comprises one and a half barrels this year. Like the Corton-Charlemagne there is quite a bit of reduction on the nose at the moment. The palate is well-balanced, conveys fine depth and a sense of roundness whilst maintaining tension. Bruised apple mixed with orange pith and nectarine. It is just missing a little mineralité on the finish, but it has the substance to age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Villages contains three barrels of the young vines in Les Caillerets. It has a crisp and enticing nose with apple blossom and crushed stone that soars from the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine nervosité, taut and linear with a vibrant, malic finish and a stony aftertaste.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2021 Clos des Chevaliers from Jean-Michel Chartron is a breathtakingly beautiful young wine. It delivers a refined aromatic constellation of apple, pear, fresh almond, crème pâtissière, a very complex base of limestone minerality, fruit blossoms, vanillin oak and a beautiful topnote of lemon zest. On the palate the wine is pure, precise and full-bodied, with a gorgeous core of fruit, stunning mineral undertow, a superb spine of acidity and laser-like focus on the long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. (Drink between 2029 - 2070)John Gilman | 97 JG4 barrels from 0.55ha is not a huge yield! Fine clean glowing pale yellow. The bouquet is promising too and shows the upper hillside authority of Chevalier. The nervous tension is very well incorporated into the weight of classy fruit, with a fine long and distinguished finish. A beautifully nuanced 2021. Excellent finish. Drink from 2028-2036.Jasper Morris | 93-97 JMThe 2021 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevaliers Grand Cru, which includes one new barrel out of the four (instead of the usual dozen), has a vivid bouquet with yellow fruit, nectarine, crushed limestone and subtle fumé aromas. The palate is well balanced with vibrant acidity, taut and fresh with notes of tangerine, citrus fruit and a pinch of spice. Linear in style, this lingers nicely, though it just needs a bit more nervosité on the finish. Still, this is very promising.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA deft though perceptible dollop of wood sets off the ultra-floral-scented nose of mineral reduction, petrol and a plenitude of spice wisps. The large-scaled flavors are borderline painfully intense while displaying an almost pungent minerality on the chiseled, youthfully austere and strikingly long finale. This is potentially brilliant.Burghound | 93-96 BH

One barrel, an exchange. Paler colour and correctly chiselled. Very tight and with excellent concentration. The length is good too. Just a baby, but with promise. Stony lemons to finish. Drink from 2026-2031.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2021 Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Jean Chartron is another outstanding wine in the making. The complex nose wafts from the glass in a mix of apple, pear, a fine base of chalky soil tones, a touch of almond, spring flowers crème pâtissière and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and nascently complex, with a fine core of fruit, excellent focus and balance, bouncy acids and a long, balanced and soil-driven finish. This not showing quite the same mineral dimension as the top two Puligny premier crus right now, but it may well catch up in this regard with some extended bottle age. Fine juice. (Drink between 2027 - 2060)John Gilman | 94 JGOnce again there is an attractive coolness to the essence of green apple, spice and mineral reduction scents. There is superb delineation to the bigger-bodied and more powerful flavors that are at once muscular yet refined, all wrapped in a moderately austere finale where a touch of wood slowly emerges. This tightly wound and very promising effort should age like a classic Corton-Charlemagne.Burghound | 92-94 BHThis delicious wine presents aromas of citrus peel and hawthorn flowers coloured with a chalky, saline mineral edge and notes of cream, butter, and spice. This year the wine is made exclusively from a domaine-owned parcel in Pernand from the lieu-dit En Charlemagne that was planted in 1961 and picked on 25 September just before the rain. It produced a single barrel, which is ageing in a two-year-old cask from the cooper Chassin.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, reduced to one and a half barrels due to the absence of any exchange, sports quite a bit of reduction on the nose that makes it difficult to read at present. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, quite taut and maybe just missing a little tension on the finish. Fine, though Chartron has made better in the past.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

This admirable flagship is a genuine ‘cuvée ronde’ that blends grapes from all parts of the village to mirror the essence of Puligny. The domaine owns seven ouvrées, and they augment the volume with exchanges for their premier cru grapes. Lieux-dits include Derrière la Velle and Les Levrons (domaine) and La Rue aux Vaches and Voittes (exchange). The result has a bright lemony fruit with a suggestion of ripe nectarine and hazelnut. The fresh acidity balances this forward fruit to deliver a wine that will drink well young but is also suited to mid-term cellaring.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Village, which comes from several parcels including some purchased fruit, has a light nose with blackcurrant leaf and light peachy scents. It has a fine-boned palate and a keen thread of acidity, red apple mixed with fresh pear and a light mineralité on the elegant finish. You could not ask for more in this vintage.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

This delightful white from a single lieu-dit in Rully is a marvelous example of the solid quality possible in the Côte Chalonnaise. It boasts ripe apple and linden flower aromas with a hint of butter and spice. The fresh acidity feels fairly chiseled, yet there is enough extract to give the wine a rich texture and lingering finish. Chartron farms three hectares here on the border with Mercurey; the grapes are pressed as whole clusters and run into cask (10% new) for fermentation.Decanter | 91 DEC

Rewardingly ripe, with creamy apricot fruit on the nose and hints of butter and hazelnut. The texture balances a very pleasant ripeness and plump texture with refreshingly crisp acidity to create a persistent, lingering finish. The domaine owns a half-hectare above Chevalier that was spared the worst damage from the frost – this yielded 26 hl/ha and produced a wine of precision with well-defined fruit flavours and good complexity.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2021 Saint-Aubin les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru has a slightly more backward nose with pear, white linen and light tertiary scents, gaining vigour in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a crisp bead of acidity, taut and linear, not powerful yet poised and citrus fresh on the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM