White Wines

wines

Fermented in a 300-liter Stockinger foudre, the 2019 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese ** (White Capsule) is another stunner of the vintage from Markus Molitor. Fine, crushed slate notes combined with the pure perfume of perfectly ripe yet refined and elegant tropical fruits and lemons appear on the complex yet highly refined nose. The full-bodied, intense and powerful palate reveals very rich, round and concentrated fruit with an almost oily texture structured by firm yet fine and lingering salinity and minerality as well as fine tannin grip. The 2019 might appear unfinished in the beginning right now, but with enough aeration, it will develop extremely well, yet only slowly. Even after I tasted the opened wine again after seven days, it was still in the process of developing. Considering the price, this is a sleeper of the vintage, and I’d seriously put it back for 20-30 years. Tasted from AP 43 20 in May 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RP

From the slopes above Montrachet, planted in 1962. The result shows aromas that meld citrus, tropical, and white stone fruits with a strong sense of salty minerality and notes of smoke and beeswax. The wine is firmly structured, with lots of racy acidity and plenty of extract, but there is never a loss of elegance or finesse. This is a superb wine that will easily continue to improve for thirty or forty years in a proper cellar. Drinking Window 2022 - 2034.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of ripe yellow orchard fruit, clear honey, white flowers, toasted almonds and nutmeg. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it’s lively and concentrated, with a deep, enveloping core, racy acids and a long, precise finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPHere the wood influence is more apparent with notes of toast and menthol framing the aromas of the cool essence of pear, apple, fennel and jasmine tea. There is another dimension of size, weight and power as well as minerality to the big-bodied and dense flavors that display outstanding length on the balanced, clean and bone-dry finale. At least 5 to 7 years will be necessary as this is presently quite tightly wound.Burghound | 95 BH

The white 2019 Certezas was produced with Sémillon from a plot of old vines from Finca Manoni in El Peral (Tupungato). Like the rest of the whites, it macerated with the skins for three days and then was pressed and fermented in 1,000-liter oak foudre, where the wine matured with gross lees for one year and then was transferred to used 500-liter barrels to mature for one more year. 2019 was cold and dry, and the grapes were healthy and ripened thoroughly to 13.7% alcohol while the wine retained very good freshness, acidity and balance. This is always the more Burgundian of the whites, with some yeasty and smoky aromas. It has a very balanced palate with pungent flavors and depth; it’s pure, complete, juicy and round, with very good structure. This is superb and has all the components and balance between them to age nicely in bottle. 1,500 bottles were filled in June 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

Crystal clear like a mountain stream, a light oak influence adds a note of lanolin to the apple, melon and lemon fruit. Turns more sleek and defined on the long, mineral- and herb-tinged aftertaste. Drink now through 2027. 269 cases made, 64 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2019 Chablis Les Séchets 1er Cru comes from vines located just above Vincent Dauvissat’s. The well-defined bouquet features honeysuckle and subtle white flower aromas. The palate is where the action is: it delivers vibrant citrus fruit, orange zest and light ginger notes. Lovely depth on the finish. This is an excellent Chablis.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet is taut and chiseled, unwinding in the glass to reveal aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, beeswax and crushed chalk. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, it will require and reward a bit of bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RP

This white is lean, sporting lemon, green plum, chamomile and lanolin aromas and flavors. A spine of vivid acidity keeps it focused and long, while the balance and harmony bode well for the future. Shows excellent length. Drink now through 2027. 263 cases made, 93 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Les Minots is lovely, wafting from the glass with notes of clear honey, citrus oil, white flowers and oatmeal. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, it’s bright and charming, concluding with a long, mineral finish. As I’ve written before, this hails from one of the sunnier, warmer lieux-dits within the larger climat of Les Vaillons, and it typically produces a more generous, gourmand wine; it’s also often where Piuze begins his harvest.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru "Les Minots" has a pretty beeswax and gravel bouquet. The palate is concentrated with fine depth and a touch of viscosity.Vinous Media | 91 VM

As with the 2018, the Marsanne-dominated 2019 Hermitage Le Chevalier De Sterimberg Blanc includes 30% Roussanne. Lots of buttered citrus, toasted bread, white flowers, and a touch of pineapple all emerge from this young, unevolved, medium to full-bodied Hermitage Blanc. With remarkable purity, bright, integrated acidity, and a great finish, it’s very much in the elegant, vibrant style of this cuvée and is beautifully done. Give bottles 2-3 years and it should keep for 20 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDSliced green-apple and melon aromas with lychees and citrus fruit follow through to a medium body with plenty of fruit in the center palate and a layered, mineral finish. Light notes of almond paste. A little tight now. From organically grown grapes. Give it two or three years to come together. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg is just a bit flinty and smoky on the nose, then bursts with ripe pineapple and pear notes and hints of melon and white peach. Medium to full-bodied, it’s almost crystalline in its fruit purity and dimension, with clean edges and ample length capped by an attractive hint of bitterness on the lingering finish. As usual, this is roughly two-thirds Marsanne and one-third Roussanne.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 2019 Chardonnay Goldberg Variations Hyde Vineyard is toasty and open on the nose with baked apples and white peaches complemented by wafts of jasmine, crushed almonds and graphite. The light-bodied palate is satiny with concentrated, toasty fruits and balancing mouthwatering acidity. It has lots of focus and energy, and hints of exotic spice in the undercurrent suggest there’s loads more expression waiting to emerge as this unwinds in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2019 Chardonnay Goldberg Variations Hyde Vineyard comes from a great vineyard in Carneros and spent 16 months in 70% new French oak. It offers a touch more tropical nuances in its melon and papaya-like fruits as well as white flowers, toasted spice, and brioche-like aromas and flavors. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is soft, supple, and opulent while still showing fabulous purity and precision. This is another gorgeous Chardonnay from this estate that will keep for 4-5 years, if not longer.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2019 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Goldberg Variations No. 2 is a pretty laid-back wine for Hyde, where the wines tend to be richer and weightier. Apricot, lemon confit, marzipan, apricot, tangerine peel, lightly honeyed notes and dried flowers all meld together in this beautifully precise expression of Hyde.Vinous Media | 94 VMLots of beautiful cooked-apple, lemon-curd and light pie-crust aromas follow through to a full body with a round texture, pear puree and a hint of apple pie. A combination of softness and brightness. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

Restrained aromas of spice, mineral reduction and poached pear are also trimmed in just enough wood to merit pointing out. The delicious, round and caressing flavors also possess a fleshy mouthfeel while delivering fine length on the citrus rind inflected finish. This isn’t quite as energetic and there is a touch of warmth though the balance does not seem to be materially affected.Burghound | 91 BHThe 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne reveals aromas of orchard fruit, smoke, bread dough and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and lively palate that’s open-knit and elegantly textural.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The domaine purchased 0.19ha in 2011 without knowing the vine age, though probably around 40 years old. Paler colour and quite light on the nose, lightly biscuity, then the palate delivers a greater weight of white fruit with a little cream. One third new wood, only a little warmth at the back. Tasted: February 2021.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

A holding of 0.22ha planted in 2004, next to Sauzet, Carillon and Latour-Giraud. This is a very early site, usually where the harvest starts chez Pernot-Belicard. Pale primrose, light toast, one third new wood, giving a crisp edge to the rich white fruit. Plenty of weight here, a little on the powerful side, but long and satisfying. There is a useful little touch of acidity too. Tasted: February 2021.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

A holding of 0.53ha planted in 1955, vinified and aged with one third new wood. Pale primrose with quite a stylish bouquet, more fruit than floral, definitely encouraging a second sniff. There is an attractive lime blossom note, without the higher alcohol feel of the vintage (though still around 13.8%), sitting back with quality reserve. Long and quite impressive. Tasted: February 2021.Jasper Morris | 93 JM

The 2019 Chardonnay Ma Belle-Fille is from an estate vineyard in Knights Valley, which is in Sonoma, just north of Napa Valley. Beautiful white flowers, honeysuckle, green almond, and chalky minerality all emerge from this beauty, and it's another full-bodied, rich, concentrated Chardonnay from this team that checks in with the crème de la crème of the vintage. Despite its richness level and decadence, it stays lively and fresh. This is straight-up brilliant ChardonnayJeb Dunnuck | 97 JDMa Belle Fille is the highest of the Peter Michael vineyards, located at 1,200-1,800 feet. Planted to a field selection of Hudson, Old Wente, Montrachet and Calera clones, it is also the earliest ripening vineyard. A tank sample due to be bottled in just a few days, the 2019 Chardonnay Ma Belle Fille slips seductively out of the glass with tantalizing notes of warm apple slices, ripe nectarines and spice cake, giving way to a beautiful perfume of honeysuckle, beeswax and tangerine peel, plus a waft of cashews. Full-bodied, the palate delivers mouth-coating stone fruit and spiced apple flavors with a lively backbone and decadent oiliness to the texture, finishing on a long-lasting honey-nut note. 2,017 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-98 RPLithe and well-knit, with lacy richness to the apple pastry and pear tart flavors that are backed by lively acidity. Brioche accents midpalate lead to a juicy finish that lingers with fresh minerality. Drink now through 2025. 2,006 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Green apple and Mirabelle flavors are cutting and pure on the palate of this richly textured, supple wine. While plush in body and undeniably ripe, it has an edge of lemony acidity alongside streaks of crystalline minerality. Voluptuous yet freshly composed, it’s delightful young but should fare well through 2030. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEPhilippe Colin farms a parcel of mostly 50-year-old vines within Les Chaumées, in the northwest corner of Chassagne, bordering St-Aubin. Given that it is near the top of the hill, where the soils are shallow without much clay, the site produced an impressively cool and expansive 2019, a wine with a long horizon line of flavor touching on sea salt, lime and stone. That stony, flinty character keeps the structure tight, set for long aging.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 94 W&SOnce again there is a petrol note to the more floral and less citrus-infused nose. There is excellent richness to the sappy medium weight flavors that possess just a bit more overall depth and persistence on the balanced finale.Burghound | 90-92 BHButterscotch and citronella aromas and flavors mark this smooth white that’s toasty too, with vivid acidity keeping this focused and driving the long finish. Drink now through 2025. 900 cases made, 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

This has a creamy, hedonistic feel, with honeycomb, apricot, brioche, white ginger and creamed yellow apple flavors layered seamlessly and carrying through a long, acacia-tinged finish. Drink now through 2025. 800 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS(Condrieu “Jardin Suspendu”- Pierre Jean Villa) Pierre Jean Villa’s Condrieu “Jardin Suspendu” is composed from a couple of different parcels, with about half the cuvée hailing from vines planted by Pierre Jean in 2009, with the other half of the bottling made from vines planted in the 1970s. The combination of younger and older vine fruit works very nicely in this cuvée, with the wine raised in older demi-muids. The 2019 Jardin Suspendu comes in at fourteen percent octane and offers up a beautifully refined bouquet of pear, almond, acacia blossoms, a touch of citrus zest, a beautiful base of white soil tones and gentle spice tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and beautifully balanced, with a lovely core, fine mineral undertow, zesty acids and lovely focus and grip on the long and complex finish. There is absolutely nothing blowsy here, as this wine has structure, cut and grip (attributes that are sometimes hard to find in Condrieu from warmer growing seasons like 2019). (Drink between 2020-2035).John Gilman | 92+ JG

The 2019 Chardonnay Laurelwood District comes from seven different vineyard sites throughout the appellation. It’s energetic, spicy and mineral-driven this vintage, with transparent aromas of white peach, beeswax, jasmine and flint. The palate pairs spicy fruit with exotic floral undertones. It has a satiny, expansive texture balanced by a spine of shimmery acidity, and it finishes long and expressive.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA crunchy and bright chardonnay with sliced lemon and honeysuckle, crushed stone and jasmine. Some lime and green mango too. Lovely acidity and hints of tannins give tension and energy to the wine at the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThis Chardonnay, made with fruit from the Ponzi family’s original 1970 plantings and a series of Laurelwood District vineyards, is quite a treat. Its floral qualities are almost too numerous to fit into a tasting note. Suffice it to say that honeysuckle, flowering tobacco and lemon catmint provide a heady amount of jasmine and citrus notes. Lighter-bodied, with a smooth mouthfeel, this lovely Chardonnay has flavors of Bosc pear, toasted filberts and a clean sea breeze. The acidity is lively, with a touch of butter on the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEA handsome Chardonnay that offers elegantly complex apple and spice flavors, with a steely hint of minerality as this finishes on a vibrant accent. Drink now. 722 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThis perfumed white offers brisk Asian pear and apple blossom notes against a tonic mineral backdrop. It’s a bit more delicate and sheer in style compared to the producer’s more powerful, single-vineyard bottlings but delightfully thirst-quenching. The Laurelwood District in the Chehalem Mountains became an AVA in 2020 based on a petition by the Ponzi family to highlight the region’s deep, wind-blown loess topsoil over decomposed basalt.Decanter | 90 DEC

The fruit for this impressive wine come entirely from the Martinelli Charles Ranch three miles in from the coast. Nutty, full-bodied and earthy, it shows a youthful grip around the edges of its otherwise lush, complex and generous richness, with a mineral-like quality of slate and salt on the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2019 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast has bright aromas of lemon, orange and peach with touches of almonds and wet stone. The medium-bodied palate offers an alluring dynamic of tangy acidity and a rounded, creamy texture, finishing long with pure flavors. 3,461 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2019 Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview is vibrant with saline, oceanic minerality, lemon pith, and tarragon. The palate is curvy but focused, with green apple, Meyer lemon, delicate oak spice, and mouthwatering acidity. Drink 2023-2032.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThe 2019 Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview) is delicious. It offers up a beguiling array of orchard and citrus fruit, along with crushed rocks, mint, lime and white pepper nuance that add brilliance. This appellation-level Chardonnay delivers, the goods, and then some.Vinous Media | 91 VMCrisp and direct, with fresh-cut Gala apple and lemon curd flavors backed by vibrant acidity. Shows dried sage accents in the midpalate, with minerally notes on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 3,461 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Bursting from the glass with aromas of peach, pear, fresh mint, baking spices, pastry cream, toasted almonds and white flowers, Ramonet’s 2019 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a generous core of fruit, ripe acids and a long, expansive finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2019 Condrieu Chery is always a more steely, mineral-driven example of this appellation, but it packs a punch in 2019 and has powerful notes of buttered citrus, pineapple, honeysuckle, and a liquid rock-like minerality. These carry to a rich, full-bodied Condrieu with an opulent texture, moderate acidity, and a great finish. As with most 2019 Condrieu (and 2018s), it’s not going to be the longest lived, but who cares? Drink this brilliant wine over the coming 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom 70-year-old vines, the 2016 Condrieu Chéry is a bit more concentrated than Niero’s Les Ravines bottling, but otherwise, it’s similar in its aromas of crushed stone and pineapple. Like the other wines at this estate, it’s aged 12 months in a mix of stainless steel (60%) and oak barrels (40%), giving it a rich, slightly oily texture. It’s harmonious and long, with pineapple and melon flavors giving way to gingery spice on the finish. (JCRobert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP

Elegantly complex and vibrant, with floral apple, lemon verbena and spice flavors that build toward a steely finish. Drink now through 2023. 424 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2019 Chardonnay “Hyland Vineyard” bottling from Résonance Wines is a lovely wine. It comes in at 13.5 percent octane and seems to show that a bit of the malolactic fermentation was blocked, as it has that lovely essence of pear aromatic note that one finds in many of Louis Jadot’s white Burgundies as well. The nose jumps from the glass in a blend of pear, apple, a touch of pastry cream, raw almond, a touch of vanillin oak and a lovely base of soil tones. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a good core and soil signature, zesty acids and a long, nicely balanced and stylish finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2021-2030)John Gilman | 90 JG